Mike's Triumph TroublesMike's Triumph Troubles
Just when I thought it was all over
Finishing off jobs for the RBRR
EFI saved a breakdown at the roadside
Getting ready for the RBRR
Rolling Road Day
EFI jobs and wheel bearings
Tuning the fuel map
Running with EFI
Its alive !
More EFI work
Sprint EFI work
The Sprint works on EDIS
Grrr HCR 1 Dolly Sprint 0 and EFI thanks to Nick Jones
A big package
Sprint and TR5 Work
More TR5 Work
I have a clutch
TR5 seats and brakes
Just when I thought it was all over
I had got the Sprint to the stage where I thought that all I was left with was those niggly little jobs:-
Check gearbox oil level
Check diff oil level
So on Sunday, I worked down the list, event to the point of curing the "squeaky" clutch pedal - needed a strip down and a grease of the shaft and spring, and as its buried under the dash, the parcel shelf has to come out.
That done, the final item was left - check brakes and pads, fronts were nice and easy, but shock and horror when I removed one of the rear drums
oil in the rear brakes - well at least drivers side - the lining wasn't fully contaminated, which is why there had been no noticeable pulling to one side under breaking.
I couldn't understand this, as the rear wheel bearings were replaced 2 years ago, with new seals as well, and there's no issue on the passenger side
However I had a sudden thought, and checked the axle breather - blocked solid with years of debris - soon cleared with a piece of welding rod
Its always the little things that get you - I should have checked it when I did the bearings - new shoes will arrive tomorrow, so it will be mobile again and I can get back to adding the miles
It has a slight oil weep from the rear crankshaft oil seal but I think I will leave this (and may live to regret this) rather than joint the gearbox removal club just before the RBRR
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 12th September 2016 1:56pm gmt
Finishing off jobs for the RBRR
I have put a few hundred miles on the car this week, and no oil leaks (can't be a Triumph then!)
I did notice some oil weeping from the sparkplug tubes, so time to replace these with some modern replacements which have replaceable O ring oil seals
I was please to note that all the plugs were a good biscuit brown, despite all the oil on the threads, which was released from the spark plug tube on plug removal - it justifies the rolling road session
It was good to also note that the head is still clean in the oil ways and around the camshaft, since it was last removed when the water pump drive failed.
I also painted my seat runners.
jobs left to do :-
Cure the re booting of the Davis Craig water pump / fan controller - its always done this, and it was a PITA during the last RBRR on the run to the A1 and the M40 on the Sunday in the slow traffic - I am going to build a filter network at work to put in its supply.
I need to check headlamp alignment
Check oil levels in diff and gearbox
drive it more and see if I can break anything
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 04th September 2016 4:05pm gmt
I started by making some rails for the seats to sit upon, as the MGTF seats have much wide spaced runners than the original Triumph ones.
The runners had crush tubes inserted where the bolts go through them
I then welded a set of bars at the spacing of the seat runners and ended up with this
The seats now bolt through their runners to the bars running front to back in the car.
Here's the finished result
Lots of fore and aft movement when required, and the seats will fully recline, which may help the passenger when sleep is required on the RBRR.
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 29th August 2016 6:24pm gmt
EFI saved a breakdown at the roadside
But more on that later, let the story unfold just as I found out yesterday...
Saturday was the day, to cure the oil leak from the front of the sump, and it was a job that I wasn't looking forward to, so with the engine supported
I undid the radiator hoses, and engine mounts, and then lifted the engine another few inches, until I had full access to the sump bolts. The rear 2 into the alloy crankshaft seal housing were missing - threads stripped, but the rest came out easily enough, and the sump came loose, but I couldn't remove it until I undid the bolts holding the oil pickup to the engine. The sump needed rotating through 90 degrees and then tilting out from under the cross member.
Not too happy with what I found in the sump though
I have given this engine regular oil changes, so where this is from I don't know.
But with this much crap in the sump it did provoke an inspection of the oil pump
fairly scored, and beyond reuse, luckily I had a spare new one, so that went on the engine.
I am fairly confident, that the metal particles stopped at the filter, as I had also changed the oil filter on a regular basis, and used good quality ones - I suppose when a big end fails on the RBRR I'll know why !
So as they say reverse the process and reassemble - I have some concerns about the missing rear sump bolts causing a leak, but I did put a smear of silicon gasket goo on the rear of the sump gasket - just in case.
All went back together well, apart from the usual fight with the engine mounting bolts, these NEVER seem to line up easily.
After filling with oil and water, it was time to remove the distributor, as I needed to fit the oil pump drive and I wanted to rotate the oil pump with a drill to pump oil round, and fill the filter - I had already primed the new pump prior to fitment.
This is what I found - dissy drive gear doll pin broken again
As the dissy isn't needed by the EFI the engine still runs despite this, and the oil pump is still driven.
I am not sure why its failed again, I stripped the distributor and there's no witness marks inside showing anything catching, the shaft rotates easily, etc etc.
Its twice this distributor has done this, so I am now going to fit an old one that I have and see if this fails too.
Finally I collected my leather MGTF seats - and although I need to make up seat mounts for them, they fit nicely and are really comfy
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 28th August 2016 08:31am gmt
Getting ready for the RBRR
As always there's outstanding jobs to do on the car, and having worked through the last 4 weekends its now time to attend to some of the jobs.
The main item to attend to was to replace the radiator and hoses, the PO had bodged the radiator fittings, and the only way to remove it had been to undo the radiator to shroud mounts. The bolts for this go into the core, so naturally 2 of the fittings had started to weep.
I had purchase a new aluminium radiator and some silicone hoses
So once the old radiator was out, I started to remove the old shroud bolts to the body - 2 came out - well the captive nut and bolt together, one I had to cut off, and one I couldn't remove, and cutting the bolt head off wasn't a solution, as the captive nut was in a blind box section
I found out the issue - UNC bolts had been fitted into UNF captive nuts. The two that came away with the nuts was simple, as I could get at both sides, new UNF nuts and bolts will suffice.
The remaining remnants of one bolt had lots of thread, as the bolt hadn't been tightened flush, so I filled the screw thread flat and could now fit a UNC nut on the threads, the remaining bolt and fixing was left for now, as I could tilt the shroud to enable easy fitment of the radiator.
However while doing this I notice a problem with the offside engine mount
This again had been replaced by the PO with an after market replacement, and although the photo doesn't show it, there was very little rubber still attached, luckily I had a NOS item, so this was replaced. The nearside mount is fine, so I left this, it gets less load anyway due to the extra steadying mount from the exhaust manifold to the chassis rail.
I then removed my not needed mechanical fuel pump and fitted a blanking plate to the hole - something less to go wrong. The plate was made from a Ford one off a crossflow, slightly cut down to fit the hole - the bolt holes were at the same centres.
That done I replaced the radiator and all the hoses, the bolts from the shroud into the radiator had ptfe tape wrapped round the threads to provide a good seal and hopefully prevent them corroding into place
So now to fix the none working fuel gauge and look for that elusive engine oil leak.
The fuel gauge was simple, just a connector off at the fuel tank
I have now degreased the engine, so once its dried off I shall run it and see if I can identify the location of the leak
The oil leak is from the front of the sump, I know I damaged the sump gasket when I replaced the timing chain and tensioner on the morning of the last RBRR, so its off with the sump next weekend. It can be done with the engine in situ, but its going to be a dirty job with oil dripping on me ...
Something to be looked forward to !
Still there's no more water leaks and the engine runs cooler too, especially at tickover, water temp stays below 90 degrees, so that's an improvement.
So once the sump gasket is done I shall drive it every day too and from work, that should get a good 1000 miles on it before the RBRR, and hopefully prove everything is good.
I am looking to fit some MGF seats too for a little more comfort, and a larger battery now that's located in the boot, there plenty of room for a larger one
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 21st August 2016 2:12pm gmt
Rolling Road Day
It was time to take the Sprint for a Rolling Road setup of the Microsquirt.
I thought that I had set it up quite well using the autotune - I hadn't !
The ignition map which I had copied from the Sprint Distributor settings was pretty close, but needed more advance at mid range rpm
and the fuel map was still too rich, but ended up like this
We didn't do a before and after run, but the end result was 137bhp and 131 ftlb at the flywheel (yes corrected I know, but I am happy with this. The factory were managing 127 bhp
Interesting when you took at the torque curve, it clearly shows where the cam starts to "work" at 2300 rpm, and torque steadily increases to 5200, which is why a Sprint is so nice to drive, as you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
This is a decent result considering I used standard unleaded at 95 octane ( in their day they wanted 5 star 98-100 octane) AND its a tired engine with 79000 miles on it. Also the cam timing is off, as when I had the head skimmed I didn't have a vernier cam pulley, and a mistimed cam does affect the Sprint's power output significantly.
I can now decide on a cam for the new engine that I am building - to keep the tractability I think a mild cam would be best, probably giving power at about 2500, as the increase in capacity of the new engine will pull back the point at which the cam starts to work.
I do wonder how little power the engine had before I started this work, as the car is significantly faster now - where do all the horses go ?
Anyway I can completely recommend Chris at efi-parts.co.uk - he's based in Runcorn, and works on most ECU's Omex, Emerald, Microsquirt etc etc - if you want a rolling road session give him a call - reasonably priced too ! I am very pleased with the result
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 16th July 2016 6:54pm gmt
EFI jobs and wheel bearings
I had a few small tidy up items to finish on the EFI conversion, mainly the air box which currently has the lid held on with PVC tape.
I had a number of thoughts to secure it, either clips or some threaded bars either side of the flanges, but in the end I opted for industrial velcro strips fitted like this
with a finished result of this.
Its a real flying machine now - the EFI has liberated a lot of horse power, I am going to book a rolling road session for it now, I'd be interested to see what power it has got, and to check my tuning results.
Wheel bearings, I have had continual issues with wheel bearing wear - and if the bearings weren't Timken, purchased from a reputable source, I would have thought that they were Chinese copies. Anyway I decided to fit new bearings, but after some research found this fully synthetic wheel grease (slightly expensive at £50 a tub !) which is supposed to significantly reduce bearing wear - which I still cannot understand as I have never had an issue with wheel bearings in the past provided a reputable supplier of OEM parts was used.
So after a little work, new front wheel bearings are now fitted.
Jobs left for the RBRR,now just replacement of the front seats with some MGTF leather ones I think, and lots of driving ! - off to Lincoln next Saturday for the TR International / CT National day
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 12th June 2016 3:19pm gmt
Tuning the fuel map
Domestic duties over I finally got a chance to take the Sprint for a drive today and get on with letting auto-tune correct the fuel map.
The first run out gave me this, I was still having issues with it being so rich that it bogged down at WOT, but after this run I then manually reduced the fuel table figures of cells that hadn't been auto-tuned and were adjacent to "tuned cells" where there was a large fueling jump.
This was a lot better and my second run out produced this - still some red cells with large disparities to adjacent ones, but much better and it is now hard to make it bog down
While its getting better to drive - and there's certainly more power there than in its previous carburettor equipped mode, it is getting difficult to explore the outer reaches of the fuel map without risk to my license ! I can see a rolling road session being booked soon.
Was the EFI conversion worth it? - you bet, it starts better, hot or cold, and has far more get up and go - I don't know about the fuel economy yet, but that's got to be better
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 30th May 2016 1:31pm gmt
Today was spent tidying up the wiring and fixing cable ties to any loose wires, and replacing the dash.
I need to build a little amplifier for the Microsquirt Tacho drive, as although I have a Smiths RVC type tacho, the output is insufficient to drive it, - that's a little project to be done at work.
I then got on with finishing the air box and filter, I had purchased this K&N cone type filter and fittings, so it was time to fit it.
Filter in place - should get lots of cold air here, with the input just behind the grill. This is why I relocated the battery.
I then needed to fit an input to the airbox, I had intended to fit this between cylinders 2 and 3 but realised if I did this that I wouldn't be able to get my hand down to the dipstick, so I had to move it along a little, here's the input fibre glassed in place, I also glassed in the IAT bung
And now all fitted
with its lid in place.
What else to do but drive the car and try and get autotune to correct the fueling, because of heavy traffic I could only get about one third of the fuel cells corrected, and it was certainly running very rich, too much accelerator (and hence extra enrichment) and the car bogged down, and the AFR went too rich and off the scale, but its progress, I managed about 30 miles in it today, but I really need to take it for a good run with no cars about to finish the other cells !
The only other job is to either replace the lift pump or at least mount it on rubber bobbins as its a little noisy !
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 21st May 2016 4:59pm gmt
Running with EFI
I have done a little more work on the Sprint in the past 2 nights.
First job was to get the AFR reading on Tune to reflect the dash gauge reading - I had selected Techedge as the controller, but forgotten to burn the settings into Microsquirt, which resolved that issue
The MAP sensor wasn't giving a reading, I had wired it as a standard GM device, but upon checking found that 5v and sensor wires needed swapping over, so I corrected that, and by "sucking" on the tube could then get Tune to show a changing reading. I then used the data sheet for the sensor to put the calibration points into Tune - that done I had a reading at rest of 96kpa - close enough to the desired 100 kpa at sea level.
I then fitted the vacuum tubes from the manifold to the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure regulator.
That done I started the engine and it was a lot, lot better, as soon as it was at temperature I used the autotune to correct the low revs fueling, which was all set too high. RESULT ! in fact it was running well enough to take it for a very short drive, which let me autotune more fuel cells.
Tickover is now stable at 800 rpm, and it pulls off without hesitation
I didn't drive far as the dash is still loose and the airbox and filter are not complete, but it works well.
I suspect the cold start needs some attention but I will leave it for now until I have proper air filtration.
The filter parts will be with me tomorrow, but I think if all goes well it will be back on the road this weekend.
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 17th May 2016 9:18pm gmt
Its alive !
I started today by removing the old fuel pipe, and then running the high pressure send and return lines - another nice day lying flat on my back under a car.
So here's the fuel lines where they enter the boot
and a view of them going to the front of the car
All plumbed in to the swirl pot
and connected to the fuel rail
and pressure regulator.
I then powered up the 2 fuel pumps, and could hear the high pressure one start, with bubbles and gurgling noises coming from the swirl pot as the air was expelled. No fuel leaks though!
The lambda sensor was then fitted and connected to its controller, its a fair way back down the exhaust, but this doesn't matter as it has its own heater, and the "self tune mode" of megasquirt is supposed to allow for the sensor delays due to distance.
I then was going to start the car, but I notice when the fuel pump relay "timed out" at the end of 2 seconds, the controller rebooted and started the timing cycle again. I traced this back to a back emf pulse from the ignition circuits, microsquirt wiring diagrams show the ignition system powered off the fuel relay, whereas megasquirt has a separate relay. So I then fitted an additional relay in my fuse/relay box, fed with a separate power feed, but still ignition switched - the difference now being that its ignition switch controlled, and not by the microsquirt, and all was well.
It did start first time
and I have it running reasonably well at a highish tickover speed. It gets a bit lumpy at tickover - its running too rich as shown by the lambda sensor, but you can see the spark timing vary, and if it slows too much the extra advance I have put in the table at slow rpms stops it stalling.
Microsquirt is also showing an incorrect lambda value, compared to the dash meter, so I need to check I have used the correct table in microsquirt - I presume the one currently used is incorrect.
However water temp, air temp and rpm, and throttle position all show correctly on Megatune, and the ignition timing also seems to vary as it should, so all good with these
I have a few jobs to finish before I try it on the road, I need to finish the airbox and cold air intake, tidy up cables, see if I can get the tacho drive to work, and fit the vacuum tubes to the map sensor and efi fuel regulator - I have it running in Alpha N mode at present, but would like to use MAP as well
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 15th May 2016 6:41pm gmt
More EFI work
After having to work last weekend, I am hoping to get the Sprint running on EFI this weekend ...we shall see.
So first job today was to relocate the battery, and run the battery cables down the inner sill, using rubber lined P clips to secure the cables
I am intending to fit a larger battery in due course, and as you can see with the spare wheel back in place there is lots of room
With power restored to the car, I got on with the fuel system, first fitting the swirl pot and integral high pressure pump, and inline high pressure filter - all wiring has been loomed up as usual
lift pump and filter
and the swirl pot tank return, I have used a Stag fuel filler hose in place of the original Dolomite one, which has a breather connection for the tank which I have used for the fuel return from the swirl pot.
Out of interest I powered up the lift pump, and it filled the swirl pot without leaks, and I could hear the return into the tank.
With luck I am hoping to fit the high pressure fuel lines tomorrow
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 14th May 2016 6:08pm gmt
Sprint EFI work
Not complete yet but good progress made.
I collected the inlet manifold on Friday, which has had a boss welded on for the Coolant Sensor
Next job was to strip out the old carbs and ancilliary items - as its a slant4 there's lots of room when everything has gone.
I have also removed the battery as I want to relocate this to the boot, so I can fit a larger battery and have room for the airbox.
So time to fit the new manifold and refit heater hoses, with a new stainless steel heater pipe - the old one was somewhat rusty
next fit the injector bodies, so I can make up the wiring loom - I have run separate looms for sensors, and the injectors to reduce interference to the sensor circuits
map sensor with loom
injectors wired, with plug for IAT sensor visible
coolant sensor and wiring just visible bellow the thermostat housing
I have now sorted out the inner wing wiring, the loose fuses have gone to be replaced with a fuse box, and a new earth strap was made and fitted, and also on the body terminal you can see the negative battery wire, which will go to the boot with the positive cable, which is now fitted to an insulated stud, which has the headlamp and fan relays connected to it with the starter motor feed - I now have to run the 2 battery wires to the boot, but I shall do that when I fit the fuel lines
Trial fit of the airbox, air horns and the IAT sensor - this needs the boss "glassing" into place, when I fit the air intake to the airbox, I am intending to fit a large cone filter behind the grill where the battery normally fits and feed this to the middle of the airbox, coming up into the airbox from underneath, between cylinders 2 and 3 - this will also let me fit a MAF in the airfeed, if I want
The throttle is also connected and the fuel pressure regulator
I trial fitted the new batter cables to a loose battery, just to see if everything works as it should - all the wing wiring mods were correct, and Megasquirt now shows coolant and air temp correctly, and I could calibrate the throttle position sensor. I am not sure about the MAF sensor though - it needs the wiring or perhaps the pin outs on the connector checking as there seems to be no change in the readings when you "suck" on the input.
Apart from that I need to fit the battery cables, fuel lines, swirl pot and the lambda sensor - so nearly there
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 01st May 2016 5:12pm gmt
The Sprint works on EDIS
Todays job was to get the Sprint working on EDIS,
So I started by making plug leads
and finishing the EDIS loom
I also fitted the wideband sensor Air Fuel Ratio Meter
So Edis loom and plug leads fitted
Next was to mount the trigger wheel and sensor, easier than it sounds as I needed to remove the radiator to get some working room, but all done, and radiator replaced
Disconnect the old coil ignition, power up the EDIS and see what happens, when I turned the key .. it started immediately.
One tiny tiny issue, when checked with the strobe, it was firing at 9 deg BTDC, instead of 10 - not bad though, and Microsquirt has an "ignition offset" setting to correct this, so well pleased.
However I do need to replace the connector on the sensor, its poorly fitting, although it was supplied with the sensor
Next job is the fuel system and relocating the battery to the boot.
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 23rd April 2016 6:58pm gmt
Grrr HCR 1 Dolly Sprint 0 and EFI thanks to Nick Jones
I know this has been posted on the CT forum, but thanks to Nick Jones it does go on to other things
At least this year we got past the halfway mark.
Nearly in Norfolk after the first 2 Counties of the second half, miss-fire, then no power, then stopped engine.
It had fuel in the carb float chambers, so check the points gap, bumped the car to try and turn the rotor, wouldn't move, assumed it wasn't in gear, tried again, no joy !
I found I could turn the rotor arm by hand.
Telephoned for recovery - we'll be two hours before we can get to you - fair enough at 3am Sunday morning
Pulled the distributor, drive gear and thrust washer left in block - the roll pin between the drive and the shaft had sheared off.
Bear in mind I have just spent a fair few pounds on getting the distributor reconditioned I was not happy, plus there's now 2 small pieces of roll pin floating around in the sump.
I cut up our clip board clip to fashion a drift, and removed the rest of the roll pin from the shaft - I still had the failed distributor from the RBRR in the boot, so I drifted the roll pin out of this, to find it was also broken, however the broken bits from the two distributors were about the length of a new pin, so I inserted these in the new distributor and drive, (they were a little loose) and secured them with some mig welding wire through the middle.
Put the distributor back, re-timed it and it fired up and ran OK.
About 4am and the recovery truck turned up.
Decided at this point to take the recovery option, as I wasn't sure why the roll pin had failed, and my repair was a bit of a bodge.
Bad pin, poorly fitted ??
I think its getting replaced with a drilled and tapped hole and a high tensile cap bolt secured with lock tight
This was my bodge fix on the night showing the welding wire holding the 2 halves of the roll pin in place
Needless to say I have now fitted a new roll pin (and kept one for spare).
Nick said that it was a bizarre fault and I should EFI it to get rid of the distributor - now I have most of the bits to convert the Sprint, but simply hadn't got round to it, so without wasting more time I started getting the parts out of storage, and started seeing what needed to be done.
I did a trial fit of the Jenvey bodies on the webber manifold (fuel rail and injectors fitted too)
This revealed the first issue, the Jenvey bodies only need an O ring to seal against the manifold,
and don't need the anti vibration mounts that the manifold came with
however without the vibration mounts the studs supplied are too long, so I need some short UNC studs. I also need to get a boss welded onto the thermostat housing on the manifold for the Megasquirt temperature sensor - I have now ordered an ally boss, and the studs have been replaced with UNC bolts for now. Still the throttle bodies do look good !
Next issue was to find a home for the Microsquirt controller and relays, behind the glove box looked ideal for me, especially as there were 2 holes ready made for mounting, and just the right size for rivnuts
And here's the ally plate made up and fitted
next job was to mount the various components to the plate
There's the Microsquirt, a combined relay and fuse box, and the innovate wideband sensor controller
and wired up tested and working - I needed to calibrate the sensor, which needs doing in free airspace, not later when mounted in an exhaust
and now fitted to the car
The glove box still fits, and I can still get to the fuses, relays and programming port from the parcel shelf.
I got this wired up to battery, engine ground and ignition sense, and all worked OK.
Next item was the coil pack and edis module which are now mounted
and wired with the exception of the crank sensor, I am moving that from the position I had originally intended for it, so the timing marks will be more visible - I also must get some loom tape for the wires. Next weekend I hope to get the car running on edis (as by default that will run the engine at 10 deg BTDC - limp mode), need to make up plug leads too.
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 17th April 2016 7:17pm gmt
Better late than never !
I have been too busy to work on cars recently, but it was time to attend to a number of jobs on the Sprint so that its fit for the HCR.
First off I replaced all the flexible petrol pipes fitted by the PO, they were not ethanol proof and were all leaking petrol.
Then it was time to attend to the distributor. The previous one had been bodged together from 2 units at the finish of the RBRR, so I could make it home, having limped the car from Didcot to the Plough.
I sent a spare sprint distributor off to H&H ignition solutions in Dudley, and got back a new looking one fitted with electronic ignition, fitted it looked like this
Its certainly sorted out the "points scatter", and the strobe timing light now gives a nice steady flash against the timing marks, without sudden jumps,
Next job was to replace the front tie bars - this is why - look at the wear where they go through the subframe
I got these adjustable replacements from Sprintspeed, this lets you adjust the length, the ST ones were 5mm shorter which is supposed to improve the handling
The final task was to replace the battery, during the RBRR I had intermittent issues with the electronic Davis Craig water pump controller when driving at night, AJP put this down to a faulty battery, and it seems that he was right as the problem has now gone away with this fitted
Finally a parcel of parts arrived this week, its a complete set of NOS gearbox internals for a Sprint gearbox, excepting the input shaft and the two RHP bearings, and the syncro cones - although I have already got 2 new sets of Stanpart ones, and Chris Wittor is supplying the bearings.
I shall be rebuilding my spare gearbox soon,,,,,,,,,,
See you all at the HCR
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 02nd April 2016 7:30pm gmt
A big package
A heavy parcel arrived at work for me today, 60 ish kg apparently.
In a wooden crate, and wrapped in grease paper
So after unwrapping this is what I found, a NOS standard Sprint block - late model too, with the enlarged water pump to jacket waterway and no jackshaft wear present or damaged threads
and as my new pistons don't fit !
its off to Chesman Engineering later this week for a bore and hone
That's part 1 of the new engine underway
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 17th November 2015 3:54pm gmt
Sprint and TR5 Work
I had been meaning to lift the rear suspension on the Sprint, via the adjustable spring seat platforms on the dampers since the RBRR.
While on that little jaunt, the ocassional bottoming out of the rear suspension had been put down to 2 fat bastards - Andy and Myself and a boot full of spares, but on the HCR I had the same issue with Anne as a co-driver - and I daren't say that she is overweight.
Looking at the car, even with no passengers the car sat lower than it should, so the tail down attitude must have been due to the rear springs settling, so this weekend I got the C spanner out and adjusted the platforms. With the seats at their highest setting, I gained another 1" of height - if I still have a problem I think new springs of a better quality will be required, but it now looks like this will be fine when driven.
I have also taken the time to fit some sound deadening material under the bonnet - it makes the engine much quieter, and the bonnet now shuts with a "thud" instead of a "clang" - This stuff is made by dynamat, and is foil ontop of a 10mm layer of foam
Back to the 5 and I finally got the fuel pipes finished and clipped into place.
I nearly forgot the tank vent
Wiring next !
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 03rd May 2015 8:20pm gmt
Today was the day to get on with the EFI system
I needed to fit a lift pump to feed the swirl pot, which I fitted in the rear inner wing. This is made by webcon, and has an integral high pressure pump
The lift pump, which will "suck" was fitted to a bracket that I made and fits in snugly under the fueltank. this mounts to two existing bolt holes on a bracket, the swirl pot was fitted via rivnuts. The lift pump has a coarse filter on its input.
The same bracket holds the high pressure filter, fitted after the efi pump
The lift pump feeds the bottom of the swirl pot, and the restricted return goes back into the top of the fuel tank
Feed to the lift pump
I then fitted the high pressure fuel regulator, with a copper pipe return to the back of the engine
I had contemplated bring the fuel lines up on the manifold side of the car - normally they run to the other, distributor side as thats where the mechanical fuel injection sits, but in the end I decided to keep to the normal fuel pipe routing, and ran two rubber hoses from the manifold fuel send and return, round the back of the engine, to the normal fuel pipe positions.
I have just about finished fitting the send and return pipes down the chassis, but I need 2 grommets to pass the fuel pipe through the floor under the fuel tank, and without these I couldn't complete the work. Once these are fitted I'll finish clipping the fuel pipe to the chassis rails, and complete the job.
Before anyone asks I have flared the ends of the copper pipe so that a good reliable seal is made to the rubber.
I need to wire up the pumps, but thats a job for when I finish the wiring
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 25th April 2015 6:02pm gmt
This may not look like much, but its taken 3 days work to get to this point.
The interior is now finished (although I have to bolt the seats in, and fit the door cards).
The carpets are correctly secured with the snap rings too - what a pain of a job!
The H frame on the transmission tunnel was fun too - a very tight fit at present. The gear knob is not original (although I have the original one) as I have fited an overdrive logic controller - actuated by the small black button on the right hand side of the gearknob. so no changing up into a gear with overdrive already selected !
The next item to have attention was the grill, you cannot even get repro ones, and although the grill was in good condition the anodising had worn through in many places. I looked at having it re-anodised, but the consensus was that stripping and polishing would probably damage the alloy, so I have taken a different approach.
After a good clean, I have sprayed it with acid etch primer, then a coat of white primer, follwed by a chrome paint. When this has dried, I shall mask off and apply the matt black - it will be interesting to see how this comes out - and if its no good I can always strip it off again and try re-anodising.
and now chrome paint applied - front
The pictures actually don't do it justice, it looks far shiney in reality
So all thats left now is:-
fit the grill
fit door cards
finish the elctrics
fit fuel pump and lines
fit the hood
fit an exhaust
and then find all the niggles !
By the way got another nice part got the Sprint, a nice new old stock gearbox mount
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 12th April 2015 8:20pm gmt
More TR5 Work
I had a good session on the 5 this weekend.
Firstly I bled the brake system and the car finally has a working brake system, although I still need to adjust the rerar brakes and handbrake cables, but thats waiting on obtaining the correct clevis pins for the handbrake cables.
Next was seat work, I had purchased some 3mm steel rod, so a happy hour or two was spent bending it into the shapes needed to replaced the damaged "wing" frames on the seats.
That done I strted to affix the foams to the seats
and then fit the seat covers
which have to be done in stages, glueing the centre of the cover into the foams, with a weight on top to make sure it fits the lower area.
This was repeated with the top covers too, until I ended up with this
I then needed to tension the covers by stretching the cover over the base, and fit the seat tilt release
That done I had two complete finished seats.
With a little bit of time to spare I got round to fitting the rear wheel arch trims, and the B post trim.
Carpets next, but I put the seats in the car just to see what they looked like
I must finish fuel pipes and electrics next before I do much more trim work
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 29th March 2015 6:34pm gmt
I didn't quite make it to Norway today, for some reason my visit got postponed, however some more nice parts arrived for the Sprint, firstly an airbox - designed for webbers, but I don't see why it won't work for Jenvey bodies - just need to cut the intakes, and make provision for an intake pipe.
and head studs with UNC thread for the block end, and UNF for the nuts which allows for more accurate torquing of the head
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 23rd March 2015 3:44pm gmt
I have a clutch
Well at least the TR5 does, first job of the day was to check all the pipe connections in the clutch system and bleed the system. I had the usual issues with big gear box clutches of not being able to pump the fluid through (on new systems), but I have recently purchesed a hand operated brake vacuum pump, which you attach to the bleed nipple and it sucks fluid through. That done I have a working clutch with a bite point abouit 3/4 way, I am happy with this, as the 5 has a tilton hydraulic release mechanism fitted (no cross shaft etc), and as the plate wears, the release bearing is pushed away from the flywheel, so making the pedal actuate the clutch with less travel, so its good it starts near the bottom of the pedal travel. If it was near the top, it would soon be into clutch slip as it wore as the hydraulic mechanism would not be able to retract far enough with your foot off the pedal.
Now that I have a working clutch I can fit the tunnel cover, but first the tunnel seals want replacing (I prefer the old cardboard tunnels to the plastic repro's as the fit isn't always so good, and I had a really good condition cardboard tunnel cover)
And now tunnel fitted, a bit of a pig of a job with the new seals, it'll be easier next time !
And thats it another 5 hours work !
I'm off to Norway tomorrow for a week's work with Top Gear, so more in 2 weeks time
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 22nd March 2015 4:13pm gmt
TR5 seats and brakes
Another day on the 5, but nothing quite finished. Brake and clutch pipes are finished now EXCEPT for the rear trailing arm pipes, The kunnifer pipe work is finished, but I had forgot that the braided flexi pipes always come with nuts that are too deep to allow the pipe unions to compres down on the trailing arms, so two standard thin nuts need ordering to complete this
Now to the seats, the first one went fine and I got the membrane and rear cushion support installed
But when working on the second seat I found that parts of the rear cushion support had rusted through
So I need to find some 3mm rod to bend to shape to replace the cushion supports that are damaged. I could have completed the first seat but decided to leave it bare so that I can dimension the wires from this, so nothing finished today
posted by mikehttp://firstname.lastname@example.org 21st March 2015 6:32pm gmt
I haven't managed to do as much on the 5 as I had hoped because of family commitments and the CT Dinner, which left me wrecked last Sunday.
Anyway what I have done is this
Got the accelerator pedal fitted
Door locks in place
Door internals finished, all locks and catches work as they should
I have started to make and fit up the clutch and brake lines - I have made these up with kunifer as its more durable than copper and doesn't work harden in the same way. Also it looks more like the original steel pipes.
Finally I collected the seat frames up, after being blasted and powder coated
I hope to get more done this weekend
posted by mikehttp://email@example.com 17th March 2015 9:06pm gmt
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