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Water Pump Repair Print
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Andymoltu
June 7, 2017, 8:47pm Report to Moderator

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About to bite the bullet and change my leaky water pump.
Never done one on a Stag before.

Where would you get one from? (not sure if it is a 6 or 12 vane until I get it off). EJ Ward are a few miles up the road from me so that was the plan.

A couple of questions about the procedure itself.

Do you need to remove the carbs from the inlet manifold? Or can you remove the manifold with carbs still attached.
Workshop manual suggests loosening the head bolts on one side when refitting the manifold. Sounds a recipe for a head gasket failure to me but would appreciate the advice of those who've done it before.

Andy
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sujitroy
June 7, 2017, 10:56pm Report to Moderator

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Removing the carbs from the manifold  is one bolt so no harm in removing the carbs.
Dont undo the head bolts.
I had a tough time getting the manifold back on . It still leaks a little.

I've heard of different thickness manifold  gaskets available so check.

Check the threads  in the heads for soundness where the manifold attaches to. You may want to consider heli coils.  

Sujit
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nibby
June 10, 2017, 7:07am Report to Moderator

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Firstly do NOT loosen of the heads. No need to.
I would repair your water pump rather than go for a new one as there were a batch of faulty new water pumps on the market. Check out LD Parts website, good info and can supply the parts you need, may be worth giving the helpful Peter at LD Parts a call.
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Richard B
June 10, 2017, 7:27am Report to Moderator

Richard Brake
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LD Parts gets my vote for parts.

or you could fit a blanking plug and an EWP. You wont have to disturb the inlet manifold in future. Of course fitting an EWP leads to other work. (moving alternator, re-plumbing the  heater, wiring in aDigital controller)

On the plus side the EWP has other benefits.


Surrey AO and Triumph Hoover, Location: Guildford - Surrey,
Spitfire 2.5PI - 1967 having surgery, PI Saloon - 1969 RBRR x 3, PI Estate - 1969 (to restore), Stag - 1971 RBRR x 2,
PI Saloon MkII - 1971(stalled project), Sold some cars!  

Daughters own: Herald 1500 1961, Herald 1500 Coupe 1962, Dolomite 1300 1976, Herald 13/60 Estate 1970
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mole42
June 10, 2017, 7:37pm Report to Moderator

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Just phone Peter at LDParts and be guided by his knowledge and integrity.


RBRR: 1990 finisher in the late UTB 757L and 2016 finisher in
Mabel who is a white 1972 Mk1.5 Stag, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto.
Next trip in the Stag is to Barcelona & Monte Carlo! CANCELLED.
10CR: Currently on the entry list for 2017.
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mikeyb
June 11, 2017, 10:30am Report to Moderator

Maldon, Essex :-)
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LD parts supply a repair kit with a non standard Jaguar (I think?) seal that eliminates the issue of wear/corrosion on the seal face of the impellor which leads to seal failure and leakage.  It does necessitate dismantling of the pump and you will need to find someone with a lathe to machine a small amount off the impellor (detailed instruction/dimensions included) but worth doing in my opinion.  You could of course just strip and rebuild with a standard seal, then no machining required.

I've been running a modified pump in my Stag now for several years with no issues.

The main reason for overhaul vs replacement is that some years ago a faulty batch of remanufactured pumps were released into the market, these had poorly hardened drive gears which had a tendency to strip, damaging the jackshaft and releasing swarf etc. into the oilways.  Occasionally one will turn up, but with no way to tell apart from a good one until it fails!


http://triumphandadversity.blogspot.com
http://mikeyb.weebly.com/

CT Drivers Challenge Champ '08 '09
CT Drivers Champ '12

Serial Triumph Offender, max out at 25 years ago!
Current Triumph count 17 16 15 14 13 14 12 13 12 13 14 15

On the road:
67 Mk3 Spit - been too many places to list!
72 Stag - Nachrict Nov '07 & '09, Mar '10, 10CR '09, 11,��LCC '10
76 Sprint - RBRR 2010 finisher, many Road Rallies, Nachrict Mar '11, HCR'11, Little Devils '11
64 Herald Rally Car - 2 autotest, 8 Rally Sprints, 3 Road Rallies, HCR '09, 4 Autosolo, Cadwell Track Day
67 GT6 Mk1

Broken: 72 Mk2 PI with TR6 engine - Nachrict Feb & Nov '06, Nachrict Feb '07, HCR '08, RBRR '08, LCC '07, '08, '09

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1) Sell a few��moderns
2) Mend my Triumphs
3) Drive them lots
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StagNL
June 12, 2017, 10:50am Report to Moderator


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General rule of thumb to test hardness is to try scratching the surface witha craft knife or HSS drill bit.if it doesn't scratch the surface is harder than 55HRc. Generally hardened parts are harder than that.

Julian


Triumph Stag, Man. OD, RHD, Datsun 280ZX halfshafts and Subaru Legacy/Forrester R160 differential, Revolution 15" alloys. Fully rebuilt 2014.  
Triumph 2500TC, LHD, Autobox, PAS, Sunroof, Cosmic alloys.
CT Holland member.
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Beans
June 14, 2017, 6:07pm Report to Moderator

Theo Boonen
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Quoted from mikeyb
... You could of course just strip and rebuild with a standard seal, then no machining required ...

It is advised to always machine the mating face of the pump's impeller lightly, as this face is prone to corrosion. Especially when the car's not used on a regular base.







1976 TR7 FHC (bought for its wheels in 2013, currently undergoing some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (a.k.a. Kermette, my first car bought in 1988 )
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined, a.k.a. 't Kreng, bought as a parts donor in 1994, the rest is history as they say)

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/
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Martins Spitfire
June 15, 2017, 9:15am Report to Moderator
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Beans

So is it as simple and putting it in a lath and facing it off to get a smooth surface/ Do you have to be careful you don't take too much off?

Martin
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cliftyhanger
June 15, 2017, 10:07am Report to Moderator

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I would recommend fitting the ceramic "polo" as it gives a none-rusting and hopefully permanent smooth surface. Just needs a few mm taking off.
In fact Martin, you have been involved with doing just that on my Toledo pump (slant engine fitted)


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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StagNL
June 15, 2017, 1:33pm Report to Moderator


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When I rebuilt my engine I found the pump and seals were OK but the sealing face on the impellor was corroded and pitted.
I simply machined off a bit in a lathe until I had a fresh clean surface.  I didn't take much material off, maybe 0.2-0.3mm.
This I then treated to a wear resistant semi ceramic coating, about 0.08mm thick.  Any loss in height is made up for via the spring.
The rest of the impellor was also treated after being bead blasted.  Did the work in 2003 and has been fine since.


Julian


Triumph Stag, Man. OD, RHD, Datsun 280ZX halfshafts and Subaru Legacy/Forrester R160 differential, Revolution 15" alloys. Fully rebuilt 2014.  
Triumph 2500TC, LHD, Autobox, PAS, Sunroof, Cosmic alloys.
CT Holland member.
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Andymoltu
June 21, 2017, 6:38pm Report to Moderator

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Got the pump out this afternoon. Unfortunately the cage left behind (will borrow bearing puller to get it out)
Does this mean the cage is had it.
What holds the cage on?
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Andymoltu
June 22, 2017, 1:19pm Report to Moderator

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Ignore previous message - came out undamaged with bush puller.
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Beans
June 24, 2017, 11:35am Report to Moderator

Theo Boonen
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Quoted from Martins Spitfire
... is it as simple and putting it in a lath and facing it off to get a smooth surface ...

As Julian already stated it indeed is just a matter of skimming the corroded/pitted part of the mating face.
Most time was spent getting the alignment of the impeller in the lathe correct!





1976 TR7 FHC (bought for its wheels in 2013, currently undergoing some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (a.k.a. Kermette, my first car bought in 1988 )
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined, a.k.a. 't Kreng, bought as a parts donor in 1994, the rest is history as they say)

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/
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Andymoltu
June 27, 2017, 8:08pm Report to Moderator

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All back together with ceramic seal insert pump from Hart (LD out of stock)
Ran it up to temp and there's coolant in the vee!
Time for sealant!
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