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Paul64
August 7, 2017, 2:45pm Report to Moderator

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I received my new toy on Friday, a Gunsons camber gauge and with a little relief, I found all readings the same, side to side. Fronts are at -1 degree left and right and the rears are at -2.5 degrees. Do these seem reasonable for a Mk1 with Mk2 rear end and 205/60 15s on 15 x 7" Minilites?
Also checked the tracking with a Trakrite and made a small adjustment to bring it down to the zero point on the gauge. I have a trip coming up so want it to be as correct as possible for the journey!

Had a bit of a spurt in energy later in the afternoon once the heat had gone down and decided to replace the rear window seal that had cracked in the corners. It came out easily enough, just pushing on the top of the window flipped the seal out and a quick tug all round popped it out, no worries.
After a good clean up with a plastic scraper, the channel was in excellent condition with no corrosion anywhere and I made a good go of refitting the rear of the parcel shelf over the lower lip with some industrial impact adhesive before reassembly - I guess it had been like that since new as parts of it were stuck down below the aperture. I eventually got it all secured over the lip, for all the difference it'll make I guess!

I used some Bostik marine product around the window channel to get the initial seal with the assistance of Mrs Lewis leaning on the window from the outside and a length of wire in the groove and now have some Arbomast for filling and finishing arriving shortly to complete the job. It's amazing how much of a gap around the circumference there is when checking under the outer lip of the seal - no surprise there were a few leaks in fitting these... It seems Arbomast is thought of really highly on the forums generally - will give it a go anyway. Petrol and acetone worked wonders to clean up afterwards though the fumes were pretty potent in the heat of the afternoon!

Paul


Paul



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JohnD
August 7, 2017, 5:51pm Report to Moderator


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That's a "Trakrite" guage?   Anything between £16 and £32 (or £165 if you want Caster as well)?

For about £1.60, or nothing, you can have this:

Making a camber gauge.
     Make it out of a piece of folded metal sheet, drilled as shown to take the wheel studs, or just long enough along the fold to bridge the rims across the diamter of the whell.  If you wnat to check camber change from bump to droop, then the curved edge below the  leaves clearance for the jack, used to move the wheel up and down.  A central hole is also needed, to clear the hubcap(not shown in diagram).
The dimensions of the gauge are not critical, but should be large enough to take the wheel stud holes.  Dimension ‘D’, the height of face ‘A’, should be 350-400 mms, to allow you to measure very small angles.
Mark a line down the middle of face ’A’, and a scale along the lower edge, either side of the midline.  See the diagram.   File a tiny ‘V’ in the edge at the top of the vertical line.

The scale needs to be calculated from dimension ‘D’, as follows:
Degrees     0.5     1     1.5     2     2.5     3     3.5     4

To find the distance of each scale mark from the midline multiply Dimension ‘D’ by:     0.009     0.018     0.026     0.035     0.044     0.053     0.061     0.07
(these numbers are the trigonometric function ‘Tangent’ of the angle in degrees)

For example:
If D=370mm; then distance of each mark from midline, in mms, will be:
     3     6.5     10     13     16     19.5     22.5     26

I have rounded the distances to the nearest 0.5mm, as I can’t see smaller than this!
I recommend using millimetres – inch fractions in decimals are much more difficult.

How to use the camber gauge.
Just place the gauge across the wheel and read off the camber at rest.

This figure is the camber angle at rest.  If you remove the spring and shocker, you can work the suspension from full droop to bump, reading the change in camber angle all the way.  
Position the car on a level surface;  Secure the car with chocks at the rear wheels.
Put someone in the driver’s seat, or a suitable weight.
Measure the height above the ground of the outer end of the lower wishbone.
Measure the height of the chassis rail at a suitable point.
Place a jack under the wishbone, and raise the wheel off the ground.
Place an axle stand under the chassis rail, with the car at the same height as before.
Remove the wheel.
Put the gauge onto the hub, over the wheel studs.
Adjust the hub so that face ‘A’ is vertical.
Using the jack, adjust the wishbone to the same height as before.
   Hang a plumb bob over the edge of face ‘A’, from the ‘V’ at the top of the line.
  Tape on the back of face ’A’ will hold the line in place.
Read the camber angle at the lower edge.

  The ideal is for the camber to stay the same throughout the arc of movement, but this will not happen!  Adjust the shock absorber spring seats, and the wishbone bracket shims to get the minimum change.




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Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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josh18
August 8, 2017, 1:26am Report to Moderator


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I like it John. I use a similar cheap sort of thing to do my wheel alignments. A couple of boards that clamp to the rims with some bungey chord and extend pats the tyre at each end. Each end has a slot cut in it near the ground and I just measure the distance with a tape measure. They seem to work really well.
similar to this
https://www.google.com.au/imgr.....;iact=mrc&uact=8
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JohnD
August 8, 2017, 10:12am Report to Moderator


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Nice one, Josh!

I do mine with a laser level, that provides the same the good old "String" method, with no sag and no need for more than one support, for the laser.

John



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Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Paul64
August 9, 2017, 12:17pm Report to Moderator

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Hi John,
Thanks for the reply - 'keep it simple, Stupid' as we say at sea...! I was thinking about something like that but I had the chance to get the Gunsons one off a mate who is clearing out his garage before emigrating to Aus. I guess I'm getting a bit lazy in older age!
I bought a Trakrite some years ago when I was living in the UK - it's a great bit of kit I think and dead easy to use and seems to be pretty accurate when I had a car checked at the local garage.

I'm heading up to the UK in the car, all being well, in a week or so to catch up with friends and give it a good run. Hopefully, all will be well and tyre-wear will be minimal after the checks have been completed!

Paul  
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