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Martins Stag
September 11, 2017, 3:03pm Report to Moderator

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Gents

I have to take my radiator out over the winter and I have been looking at all the radiators on ebay both original and Aluminium. I am aware that some of the Chinese Alloy ones are  a bit on the thin side but I was wondering should I spend the extra and get a UK Alloy one or an I wasting my time?

Also which are the stronger for that un-expected stone attack moment?

Any advise would be gratefully received

Martin
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JohnD
September 11, 2017, 3:07pm Report to Moderator


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I use a Honda Civic R one, less than £100, needed brackets TIGged on.
Stones?  That's what the radaitor grille is for!
Jiohn


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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cliftyhanger
September 11, 2017, 3:19pm Report to Moderator

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Aluminium or copper will both hole, as indeed we saw in July. But ally may just have the edge?? Copper easier to repair.

As to best rad, I am sure most will be fine. But somebody may be able to advise which to avoid.



Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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DJT
September 11, 2017, 5:20pm Report to Moderator


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Alloy radiator in the Stag is purely for 'bling' purposes if you've got plenty of money. Standard radiator is well up to the job if it has a good core and the rest of the block is clear of crap. I've been using standard radiators (either bought from JP or recored locally) for 28 years and getting on for 100,000 miles with no sign of over heating problems.
Copper is better at losing heat than aluminium.


1973 Early Mk2 (Mk 1.5) Stag, original TV8 with ZF 4-Speed auto.
Full body restoration 2013
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Martins Stag
September 12, 2017, 8:52am Report to Moderator

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Clive Collins issue was what made me think of this. I think the radiator looks a bit fragile and I think it may be the original so it could be 40 years old.....

I have the electric fan to fit but following Andy Cooks experience on electric fans I am having a think about that too!

I think I will take the radiator out and give it a reverse flush and take a view from there....

I think I will add the Stagwebber fan shrouds to the radiator too. I think this will increase the effecency

Martin
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cliftyhanger
September 12, 2017, 9:53am Report to Moderator

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Is it overheating at all?
A good flush of the entire system may be a good idea, not sure about using speedflush or other chemical cleaners in it though. Guess you could fill the rad with some cleaner when off the car though.

I am a big fan (unintended pun) of shrouds.

Re electric fans, all very difficult. You don't need a fan at all when moving above a walking pace. But when you stop, you ideally want something gently blowing air through the engine bay, way before a "proper" rad fan would kick in. I know 2 or 3 speed fans are available, but getting it to switch on slow when stationary would not be easy.


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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StagNL
September 12, 2017, 2:54pm Report to Moderator


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If yours is OK then I would stick with it and not try to fix something that isn't broken.
If yours is stuffed, I'd keep with the original setup as DJT also says.
If your car is overheating first make sure everything is up to standard before replacing the radiator.  Before you know it you may still have an overheating problem despite fitting an alloy radiator and heater tank and electric water pump.  Cause needs addressing, not symptoms.

Julian


Triumph Stag, Man. OD, RHD, Datsun 280ZX halfshafts and Subaru Legacy/Forrester R160 differential, Revolution 15" alloys. Fully rebuilt 2014.  
Triumph 2500TC, LHD, Autobox, PAS, Sunroof, Cosmic alloys.
CT Holland member.
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DJT
September 14, 2017, 10:29am Report to Moderator


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Quoted from cliftyhanger
You don't need a fan at all when moving above a walking pace. But when you stop, you ideally want something gently blowing air through the engine bay, way before a "proper" rad fan would kick in.


That is what the original viscous coupled fan is for. It only operates at engine speeds below about 2500rpm. Above that the viscous fluid inside 'sheers' and the fan freewheels. Many owners don't know how it works, or how to test it. This leads to all sorts of problems when it fails, such as overheating when stationary. Fit the original fan, with a good coupling. It is amazing how much air you can feel blowing around your feet when you stand beside the driver's door with the engine running and the bonnet shut.


1973 Early Mk2 (Mk 1.5) Stag, original TV8 with ZF 4-Speed auto.
Full body restoration 2013
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CharliesStag
September 14, 2017, 10:20pm Report to Moderator

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The fan debate is an interesting one.  I have a viscous fan on my modern.

However, a well known Magazine editor in the States tested a few different fans.  The results were surprising:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXdLgaFXZzs

FWIW mine was OK with just the electric Kenlowe.  A better fitment and shrouding would have made it more effective however.


Ex Stag TV8, Dolly Sprint and Spitfire 1500 owned.

Now with the following:
1985 Ford Escort RS Turbo Series 1 1.8
2003 RenaultSport Clio 172 Cup(ish)
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DJT
September 15, 2017, 6:20pm Report to Moderator


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There are couplings that look similar but which work on temperature. Some have a bi-metallic or clutch spring inside. These freewheel at low temps, but engage as the temperature rises. Quite the opposite to the ones fitted to Stags (and some other Triumphs and Land Rovers) which are not affected by temperature, only rotational speed. None of the ones tested in that video were of the Viscous type. The Stag VC uses virtually no power at speed as it freewheels.


1973 Early Mk2 (Mk 1.5) Stag, original TV8 with ZF 4-Speed auto.
Full body restoration 2013
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CharliesStag
September 16, 2017, 7:35am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from DJT
There are couplings that look similar but which work on temperature. Some have a bi-metallic or clutch spring inside. These freewheel at low temps, but engage as the temperature rises. Quite the opposite to the ones fitted to Stags (and some other Triumphs and Land Rovers) which are not affected by temperature, only rotational speed. None of the ones tested in that video were of the Viscous type. The Stag VC uses virtually no power at speed as it freewheels.


This is true ; my BMW uses a similar coupling to the one that he first tested.  He did however go on to say that in his opinion that an RPM dependant coupling would cause a similar power loss given that the VC tested was cold ; it had a dummy radiator in place along with the room being cold.

It would be interesting to see what actual difference the lack of fan made on a Stag unless someone has already done it.

While I have nothing against the Stag VCs I do have something against the new items being of varying quality.

But we are straying off topic here .

I've had a copper radiator on mine and been fine.

The one thing the copper rad offers is that they are rebuildable.  I'm sure Ally items are too but it is not as simple.

But Copper rads can be fussier on the coolant requirements (i.e, non-OAT preferably) due to the tanks being soldered onto the core.

While Copper has a higher heat transfer ability over Aluminium the soldered joints can impair that, meaning that Ally actually has a more uniform heat transfer ability due to no lead or brass being in the mix, thus no differing metals.

If it were me I'd probably stick with a 4 core gill and tube radiator until they became too pricey to recore ; only then would I consider an Ally item.


Ex Stag TV8, Dolly Sprint and Spitfire 1500 owned.

Now with the following:
1985 Ford Escort RS Turbo Series 1 1.8
2003 RenaultSport Clio 172 Cup(ish)
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StagNL
September 18, 2017, 3:08pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from CharliesStag

It would be interesting to see what actual difference the lack of fan made on a Stag unless someone has already done it.


I took mine off several years ago and decided to go for an electric one in front of the standard radiator.
The car runs perfectly without the VC fan and the electric only comes on on really hot days while stationary for a long time such as traffic jams.  Been on long runs on hot days and as soon as the car gets moving I see the needle drop purely from the windflow.

Julian


Triumph Stag, Man. OD, RHD, Datsun 280ZX halfshafts and Subaru Legacy/Forrester R160 differential, Revolution 15" alloys. Fully rebuilt 2014.  
Triumph 2500TC, LHD, Autobox, PAS, Sunroof, Cosmic alloys.
CT Holland member.
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roger keys
September 18, 2017, 6:36pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from CharliesStag
The fan debate is an interesting one.  I have a viscous fan on my modern.

However, a well known Magazine editor in the States tested a few different fans.  The results were surprising:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXdLgaFXZzs

FWIW mine was OK with just the electric Kenlowe.  A better fitment and shrouding would have made it more effective however.


Still working fine without the mechanical fan

What improved it as ive posted before was fitting a spoiler, an exercise ive just repeated on "new stag" with the exact same results.


1980 Triumph Dolomite Sprint - broken
1974 Triumph Stag - 4 speed auto - sort of working
1970 Triumph 2000 - 3.5 V8 - in bits
1973 Triumph Stag - 4 speed auto.
1969 Dodge Charger RT/SE, complete.
2017 HSV Maloo
2016 Ford Mustang

RBRR 1990, 1992, 1994, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2002, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2014, 2016
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Flying Farmer
September 19, 2017, 7:50pm Report to Moderator

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When I got my first Stag I removed the original fan and viscous coupling and fitted an 2 speed Kenlowe.
I found the temperature gauge would not stay steady, varying with speed and load. This was the only car I have ever had this problem on apart from a Sprint with an obviously knackered radiator.
The original 3 row radiator looked good, but I decided to fit an uprated 4 row from Rimmers. As the exchange surcharge was only £30 I kept the old rad. Just as well, as the new rad made absolutely no difference whatsoever.
Next I fitted a TR6 spoiler, that worked wonders at keeping the temp stable, and the fan only comes on when stuck in traffic.
The original 3 row rad was subsequently fitted to my second Stag along with a TR6 spoiler and 2 speed Kenlowe and has been adequate to cool well over 200bhp on a track day thrashing and climbing mountain passes in the French Alps.
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CharliesStag
September 21, 2017, 2:25pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from roger keys


Still working fine without the mechanical fan

What improved it as ive posted before was fitting a spoiler, an exercise ive just repeated on "new stag" with the exact same results.


Excellent stuff.  One issue is that alot of the fans sold out there cannot move the air.  My RST had this problem but then it was short of space everywhere!

The spoiler analogy is interesting!  I knew you had good results with my old Stag, as did StagDad on his.  Seeing as you've had the same results on the new car that can only mean good things.  It's not like it is a pricey modification either.


Ex Stag TV8, Dolly Sprint and Spitfire 1500 owned.

Now with the following:
1985 Ford Escort RS Turbo Series 1 1.8
2003 RenaultSport Clio 172 Cup(ish)
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