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Triumph Torque    Cars    Spitfire/GT6  ›  Rear suspension vertical link removal help
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Rear suspension vertical link removal help Print
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phillipr2345
September 12, 2017, 4:28pm Report to Moderator

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Hello gentlemen could anyone advise me on how to remove a vertical link of my spitfire rear axle I have tried and failed thanks phill
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yorkshire_spam
September 12, 2017, 5:37pm Report to Moderator

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How far have you got?
I would guess (without thinking about it too deeply):
  • Jack and support car and remove appropriate wheel.
  • Disconnect shock absorber
  • Unbolt bottom "trunion" bolt and remove (if possible!)
  • Remove trailing arm bolt
  • Remove spring bolt
  • then try and wriggle the VL out
  • give up and remove driveshaft assemble from car
  • Get annoyed and disassemble the whole thing.
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Nick Jones
September 12, 2017, 5:37pm Report to Moderator

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Bolt through the trunnion rusted in the bush tube?  If so it's going to involve careful use of a hacksaw to saw through the bolt between the VL and trunnion housing.....

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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ferny
September 12, 2017, 5:59pm Report to Moderator

Mr Hoppy!
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If that's the case, remove the whole driveshaft and use a hacksaw blade to cut through it. Far easier, even taking into account the removal and refit.


Acclaim - fully working and on the road
13/60 Herald - mx5 powered and other such fun things, legal enough...
Mk1 2000 - it's still alive, just sleeping
Expert 815d - the slug

If in doubt, do up until you hear the crack and then go another 1/4 turn to ensure tightness.
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phillipr2345
September 12, 2017, 6:10pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from yorkshire_spam
How far have you got?
I would guess (without thinking about it too deeply):
  • Jack and support car and remove appropriate wheel.
  • Disconnect shock absorber
  • Unbolt bottom "trunion" bolt and remove (if possible!)
  • Remove trailing arm bolt
  • Remove spring bolt
  • then try and wriggle the VL out
  • give up and remove driveshaft assemble from car
  • Get annoyed and disassemble the whole thing.
I've removed the whole passenger side axle to strip it the bolt is solid I'm trying to save as much as I can the trunion needs replacing thanks phill

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phillipr2345
September 12, 2017, 6:13pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Bolt through the trunnion rusted in the bush tube?  If so it's going to involve careful use of a hacksaw to saw through the bolt between the VL and trunnion housing.....

Nick


I will give that a shot in the morning thanks
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cliftyhanger
September 12, 2017, 6:32pm Report to Moderator

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Just make sure it is a bimetal hacksaw blade. Not had great success with HSS on bolts, but may work, and the cheaper (high carbon blades will loose their teeth in seconds...


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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JohnD
September 12, 2017, 8:42pm Report to Moderator


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Considers thin cutting disc in an angle grinder.
Look for high quality discs, less than 1mm thick.
John


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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phillipr2345
September 12, 2017, 8:44pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from JohnD
Considers thin cutting disc in an angle grinder.
Look for high quality discs, less than 1mm thick.
John
thanks John i will have a look for some cheers

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applepie
September 13, 2017, 4:59pm Report to Moderator

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Just done my GT6 - I used the 50% acetone / 50% auto gearbox oil in a spray bottle every morning & even for a week as suggested by someone on the forum, tightened and relaxed the nut and then put the rattle gun on the bolt head. To my amazement the bolt turned and could then be removed with brute force and ignorance!! All the bolts on both sides came out.

    Now if only someone could tell me how to get the lower shock absorber bolt and bracket out of the upright??????
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yorkshire_spam
September 13, 2017, 5:35pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from applepie

    Now if only someone could tell me how to get the lower shock absorber bolt and bracket out of the upright??????


The rod that mounts the shock on the rear upright is part of the upright IIRC?!
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Nick Jones
September 13, 2017, 8:53pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from yorkshire_spam


The rod that mounts the shock on the rear upright is part of the upright IIRC?!


This is true if it's a swing axle car but not if it's a rotoflex car.  Those do come out in theory.  In practice most are now permanently fixed by rust and are best not messed with unless you have a really good reason to remove them.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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applepie
September 14, 2017, 2:32pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Nick Jones


This is true if it's a swing axle car but not if it's a rotoflex car.  Those do come out in theory.  In practice most are now permanently fixed by rust and are best not messed with unless you have a really good reason to remove them.

Nick


  changing the uprights!!
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Nick Jones
September 15, 2017, 5:12pm Report to Moderator

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A mix of acetone and ATF seems to be one of the best release agents - but you'll need a good long soaking to stand a chance and probably oxy-acetylene too to stand a chance with most of them.  With around 3" engaged length and dry tolerances that seem ideal for rust-gripping, some are in there forever.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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phillipr2345
September 16, 2017, 1:54pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Nick Jones
A mix of acetone and ATF seems to be one of the best release agents - but you'll need a good long soaking to stand a chance and probably oxy-acetylene too to stand a chance with most of them.  With around 3" engaged length and dry tolerances that seem ideal for rust-gripping, some are in there forever.

Nick


Like the one I'm trying to do absolutely solid I cut the carrier of as the thread for the shocker is stripped and sti can't get the truniun out 😡
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