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scotty71
December 20, 2017, 1:33pm Report to Moderator

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the transistor which is in the stabilizer will go pop.
090701
Dashboard Voltage Stabilizer   Voltage Stabilizer - Negative Earth  this from AES https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1062
try them for the parts. I have brought parts from them, they are good company.
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Bitumen Boy
December 20, 2017, 3:20pm Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Paula
Is there a reason not use something like this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10p.....p2057872.m2749.l2648


Paula, I did just that a couple of years ago. Following advice from someone who knows a damn sight more than me about such things I added a capacitor between 12v and earth to smooth out the inevitable voltage spikes from a dynamo charging system. The capacitor you need is rated 0.047uF, 100v  - they're not polarity sensitive so no worries there. Soldered the two components together with flying leads and insulated with heatshrink sleeving and fitted in place of the old one, works fine and works out a deal cheaper than a repro. The knackered one I took off was also an electronic repro identical to the photo you posted - don't know why it failed but I wonder if the heatsinking is inadequate leading to them getting too warm? IIRC I bolted the replacement to the underside of the bulkhead "shelf" instead, that'll never heat up in normal use.
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Paula
December 20, 2017, 7:01pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Bitumen Boy


Paula, I did just that a couple of years ago. Following advice from someone who knows a damn sight more than me about such things I added a capacitor between 12v and earth to smooth out the inevitable voltage spikes from a dynamo charging system. The capacitor you need is rated 0.047uF, 100v  - they're not polarity sensitive so no worries there. Soldered the two components together with flying leads and insulated with heatshrink sleeving and fitted in place of the old one, works fine and works out a deal cheaper than a repro. The knackered one I took off was also an electronic repro identical to the photo you posted - don't know why it failed but I wonder if the heatsinking is inadequate leading to them getting too warm? IIRC I bolted the replacement to the underside of the bulkhead "shelf" instead, that'll never heat up in normal use.


Thanks for that.
Do you think i'll need the capacitor with a alternator? I like the idea of attaching it to the bulk head


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Bitumen Boy
December 20, 2017, 7:47pm Report to Moderator
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Quoted from Paula


Thanks for that.
Do you think i'll need the capacitor with a alternator? I like the idea of attaching it to the bulk head


I don't know whether the capacitor is necessary with an alternator, but for the price of the capacitor I'd be inclined to include it anyway - it won't do any harm.

It might depend on the alternator itself, a modern one would likely be OK but I've heard the older Lucas types often don't regulate much better than the dynamo control box.

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Paula
December 20, 2017, 7:54pm Report to Moderator

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Done.
99p for 5!


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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RobPearce
December 22, 2017, 5:04pm Report to Moderator

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The manufacturer's data sheet for those voltage regulator chips nearly always specifies a local capacitor on both input and output. How critical they are, and what value they need to be, depends on the particular chip and application. I'd fit them as a matter of course. The dynamo vs. alternator question is beside the point if the chip is supposed to have those capacitors even when the incoming voltage is fully clean!


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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Paula
December 22, 2017, 6:38pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RobPearce
The manufacturer's data sheet for those voltage regulator chips nearly always specifies a local capacitor on both input and output. How critical they are, and what value they need to be, depends on the particular chip and application. I'd fit them as a matter of course. The dynamo vs. alternator question is beside the point if the chip is supposed to have those capacitors even when the incoming voltage is fully clean!


I've stuck one on the In V to Earth.
I couldn't fit it in the box so it's living outside.
I haven't fitted it yet.


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
December 22, 2017, 6:44pm Report to Moderator

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Here's what i made.
If i was to sell them it would be about £50 each! There's not a lot of space in there! Took ages with my limited skills. I think i used too much wire and it filled the space.
The capacitor lives outside in the breeze.
Multimeter is happy though!



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Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
December 27, 2017, 7:13pm Report to Moderator

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Hello!
Happy Xmas everyone!
I've fitted the new voltage regulator i made and the gauge looks solid as a rock.
I want to get an idea of what it's telling me though. I've used reserve once and it worked, now i want to know where that is on the gauge.
Can anyone tell me how much is in reserve? I know it's a 40 ltr tank from the workshop manual, but i can't find out how much is left in the bottom for reserve.
Thanks!
Paula.


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Nick Jones
December 27, 2017, 7:35pm Report to Moderator

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Supposedly 1 gallon/4.5L.  They vary though as it's a function of the curve of the pick-up pipe.

On mine, which draws from the bottom via a small stand-up in the drain bung it keeps pulling until the gauge has gone to just below the empty line.  However, because every time this has happened I've ended up having to dump the jerrycan into it to reach the next filling station, I've still never done a completely-empty-to-completely-full fill test.  It's more than 40L though.

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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JohnD
December 27, 2017, 8:22pm Report to Moderator


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That's 'jerrycan' as in good old Wehrmacht three handled, 20 litre jobbie?   I've weighed my two,  drained and  bone dry, so  I can weigh them part full.  Weighedboth in case they are different, and they are!  Fuel's lighter than water so  about 0.75l/kg.  

Sorry,  Paula, I don't have a standard tank any more, but that method will work .  Yer standard plastic 5  litre fuel can  holds a bit more, but filling station pumps are accurate - by statute!
John

PS well done with the stabiliser!  


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Paula
December 27, 2017, 9:08pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Supposedly 1 gallon/4.5L.  They vary though as it's a function of the curve of the pick-up pipe.

On mine, which draws from the bottom via a small stand-up in the drain bung it keeps pulling until the gauge has gone to just below the empty line.  However, because every time this has happened I've ended up having to dump the jerrycan into it to reach the next filling station, I've still never done a completely-empty-to-completely-full fill test.  It's more than 40L though.

Nick


Oh that's not much is it?
Must purchase a jerry can!


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Paula
December 27, 2017, 9:13pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from JohnD
That's 'jerrycan' as in good old Wehrmacht three handled, 20 litre jobbie?   I've weighed my two,  drained and  bone dry, so  I can weigh them part full.  Weighedboth in case they are different, and they are!  Fuel's lighter than water so  about 0.75l/kg.  

Sorry,  Paula, I don't have a standard tank any more, but that method will work .  Yer standard plastic 5  litre fuel can  holds a bit more, but filling station pumps are accurate - by statute!
John

PS well done with the stabiliser!  


That's a good idea.
I'm not sure i need that level of accuracy.
I'm also not liking the idea of running out in this weather!
Maybe if i wait until the needle points to E (it's super close now) and then fill it up. If i get 35 Ltrs in then i know that it's accurate enough to know i have a little reserve in the tank when it gets to E.


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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Rosbif
December 27, 2017, 9:42pm Report to Moderator

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The way I do it is top up at around every 150 miles. This is fine for my use,  so far haven't done that many miles per day for it to be a problem. During the summer there was a week when I was doing highish distances so filled up each evening. I do have a 10 litre plastic jerry can as a back up.

The standard Herald tank is smaller than the Vitesse one so keeping an eye on the needle is more important.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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RobPearce
December 27, 2017, 10:00pm Report to Moderator

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When I had my first Vitesse, many years back, there was a period when the fuel sender float had a pinhole and would leak its air out until it sank, rendering the gauge useless. During that time I did, indeed, run out a couple of times. Fortunately I was within ten miles of a filling station both times so the reserve tap worked for me.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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