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71 GT6 Resto Print
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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 11:03am Report to Moderator

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Thought I had better get on and start a resto thread, because some have been asking and also it is a good recall for the years of pain and anguish to follow.
I was on here as DavidGT73 but changed to to correspond with the correct year, 71, dad got confused and thought it was a 73.
The car was a resto my day started almost 10 years ago but old age and his increasing at the time motorbike and moped collection stalled it.
He now felt too old and lost the enthusiasm to go into the cold garage and finish it so I have inherited it, to speak.
Not many before phots as dad didn't take that many but a brief resume is:-
1971, non OD, Brown rusty GT6.
Dad stripped it and has replaced floors, rear wings, patched the roof section, part replaced the lower section of rear valance, inner where arches new, new bonnet and quarter valances.





He got some years ago a s/h chassis converted to take his or the new suspension, however when I started to mock up the bonnet with the body and doors nothing seemed to fit. It transpires that he had fitted the new rear wing skins slightly too far into the door aperture, I now have found after reading various bits on here that the skins can be the wrong size and not fit well, and I thought it was just the American Mustang panels that were a poor fit. So with the bonnet and tub bolted into the best position possible the rear wing was cut, bits removed, new bits let in and then leaded to make good.



No going back now



And a bit of lead work to make good


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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 11:09am Report to Moderator

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The other side wasn't that bad but the welding needed a bit of making good and then to finish a skim of lead.
I think they were originally lead loaded here as I found old traces on the top of the B post, so I followed suit.





And making good, The top of the door trailing edge here I had to let a piece in as it was starting to get thin.

As a foot note I'm not sure how much you lot like photos or long winded or short write ups etc. Let me know so this doesn't make good nodding off material.

Cheers

David




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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 11:17am Report to Moderator

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The doors were OE and in good nick and I didn't want to replace a skin just for the sake of it.
The O/S door wanted a repair on the lower section and that was it really.





Cocked up on the radius and had to use the shrinking blade to pull it in a bit.



And fitted ready to be fettled. Also the gaps were terrible all around, having read on here that this was the norm apparently I have tried to set about correcting this, this door has had the old welding wire trick to close up gaps and get them parallel without the use of filler etc.

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RedRooster
June 28, 2017, 7:55pm Report to Moderator


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Just make sure you wash off all the flux before you apply lead, a soda mix is good to neutralise it.


GT6 Mk3, the Rooster    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8W1XSjFB6g  tune on the radio the first time it broke down, 5 miles after i bought it
http://www.triumph-club-de-fra.....estauration-dune-gt6  
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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 8:31pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RedRooster
Just make sure you wash off all the flux before you apply lead, a soda mix is good to neutralise it.


That's right, any good alkaline base mix will do, an old boy who taught me how to do lead work about 35 years ago said that good old fashioned washing powder mix was one of the best things, and cleaned his hands in the process before he went home, Or vegetarians pee, this is alkaline , the washing powder is great, never had the nerve to try veggie pee.

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byakk0
June 29, 2017, 6:59am Report to Moderator


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I love a good GT6 resto (see mine as linked below). Keep up with the good work, photos and descriptions.


~Hazen
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Contact me if you need a hinge cover for your GT6
3rd brakelight option now available.
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67 Mk1 GT6 (rebuild here--> http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1397446003/ <--)
{{{My apologies. I've used Photobucket for many of my photos. Due to changes at photobucket you may need to right click and open the pic in a new tab in order to view them}}}
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 1:28pm Report to Moderator

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The alignment of the door to sill to bonnet was a real issue, I'm not sure if the sills were slightly out or dimensions wrong or perhaps just fitted a bit out, or they just don't give the satisfactory gap wanted, however as they were well and truly on the only option was to correct some of the angle gaps with a welding weld trick.



The curve runs neatly with the door bottom and now runs up and aligns with the new bonnet edge.

The sill wasn't quite high enough to the door bottom, so this was raised the thickness of a welding wire and then sanded down to give a parallel gap.

.

Once ready I will lead most of these gaps and making good.

The O/S already done to meet the curvature of the door bottom and to get the lines running up into the new bonnet trailing edge somewhere reasonable


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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 1:39pm Report to Moderator

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The bonnet was proving to be a real issue and no matter how I tried to adjust this I could not get the bonnet edge close to the scuttle or door.
Any attempt to move it cause real issues with the alignment of the sill into bonnet wheel arch alignment, into the bonnet wheel arch alignment into front quarter panel, or to make matters worse really cocked up the alignment and view of the bonnet with bumper etc.
Its a job to explain but any of you who must have done this will know what I am talking about.

After a week of evenings bu&&erring with this it transpired that the edge of the new bonnet was 1/8th inch shorter on the O/S and the top of it where it meets the scuttle/door top edge was a different shape, Woooooooonderful.
As dad bought the bonnet over 8 years ago sending it back wasn't an option so I had to remove the top small bit of return edge of the bonnet on the o/s trailing edge, welding wire to the rescue, welded to extend the trailing edge and then weld back on the return to finish the bonnet. Fits like a glove, not sure if this shows it or not.






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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 1:44pm Report to Moderator

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No door but you get the idea



And now with a quick fiddle we get a fairly decent bonnet to bumper and to quarter valance gaps.



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Mk3Mark.
June 29, 2017, 2:51pm Report to Moderator

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What an absolute nightmare David,i'm surprised the Heritage bonnet was out that much! I've done a few jobs on a couple of these over 25 years ago now and always found using the Original panels an excellent fit mostly. Don't forget to Galvanise it when your finished to add a bit of Vorsprung durch Technik. Lol .  Even though we love an Audi or 2   (no more rust and welding when i switched over) you've got to agree a GT6 Mk3 is a stunning looking car when done right,i've always loved them.Keep up the good work mate! 👍
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daedalusminos
June 29, 2017, 3:15pm Report to Moderator

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Were they heritage sills? I've found heritage panels to be a perfect fit so far
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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 3:20pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.
What an absolute nightmare David,i'm surprised the Heritage bonnet was out that much! I've done a few jobs on a couple of these over 25 years ago now and always found using the Original panels an excellent fit mostly. Don't forget to Galvanise it when your finished to add a bit of Vorsprung durch Technik. Lol .  Even though we love an Audi or 2   (no more rust and welding when i switched over) you've got to agree a GT6 Mk3 is a stunning looking car when done right,i've always loved them.Keep up the good work mate! 👍


I wont be galvoing it, as any paints like this can lead to adhesion problems of other products, although believe it or not good old screwfix do a really good zinc rich spray. I tried one as a short cut measure years ago as I was out of weld thru primer, crikey it really is zinc rich, so all of the bare metal on patches and prior to welding get a good old coat. Any welding will burn off on the welds but this is good gear.

I use epoxy primers now and have done so for years, the old acid etch stuff was superseded by this years ago, the Lechler and Mipa epoxy sealer/primers are great products, and fantastic for bare metals and a good base prior to any filling and paint process. Yep the Audi is holding up fantastic at the moment, and its on the list after the GT6, and the wife has chosen the colour as the GT6 will be her car.
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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 3:26pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
Were they heritage sills? I've found heritage panels to be a perfect fit so far


I have no idea, my dad purchased this lot I think over 10 years ago, I think he got the lot from Rimmers, or it could have been he used Moss, like I said I cant remember, and I think he has forgot, we keep finding boxes of bits though.
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daedalusminos
June 29, 2017, 3:32pm Report to Moderator

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No matter, you're doing good remedial work. Also your lead loading of the B-post looks spot-on.
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Mk3Mark.
June 29, 2017, 3:55pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from DavidGT71


The wife has chosen the colour as the GT6 will be her car.


Go on spill the beans, what colour will it be?
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