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71 GT6 Resto Print
3 Pages « 1 2 3 All Recommend Thread
Mk3Mark.
August 9, 2017, 12:17am Report to Moderator

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Impressive high quality work there David, very impressed with how this looks and has come along.  
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DavidGT71
August 9, 2017, 7:50am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.
Impressive high quality work there David, very impressed with how this looks and has come along.  


Thanks

Off on hols tomorrow so will do a bit more on the photos front when I get home.

At the moment the body is back on and I have fabricated new seat belt mounts sop the wife can use inertia belts without the need to reach over her shoulder to grab the clasp/pin whatever.
Did a mod to mount the top fixing up high almost like a production car and reinforced that area of roof member. Given the top mounting bolt is under a shearing load rather than tension ( pulling ) the frame is super strong. Tried to take a couple of pics but the shots just come out dark, even with a flash. The area where the bolt comes thru the headlining we have fabbed the seat belt bolt mounting so it is just below the headlining so the headlining doesn't get pulled out of shape. Good old dad is turning up a decorative white PTFE washer to finish the headlining where the bolt passes thru to neaten it up.

Also found a sill seam/flange finisher which will work nicely. From what I can see the sill to floor seam was covered with a S/S finisher which is hard to get hold of now, so we have been looking for an alternative, our local metal fabricator man supplied a real nice length of U channel steel which fits perfectly over the seam. I know it should be S/S or that finish but we don't want the expense of chrome and zinc isn't man enough for that area so we have bu&&ered about and tried different things and its going to be painted body colour. Not OE but for the mock up it really neatens this up and looks nice to suit. Again, I will try some more photos when I get home from hols.
Cheers

David
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byakk0
August 9, 2017, 11:14am Report to Moderator


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I'm not sure I'm sold on the looks of the sill seam finisher, but then again my car has never had them.
That said, that seam is rather ugly.
The problem with the finisher is it is a nice moisture/dirt trap, perfect breeding ground for Rust.
I'm actually contemplating just getting some stick on plastic chrome door edging and just sticking it to the outside of the seam.


~Hazen
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DavidGT71
August 9, 2017, 12:16pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from byakk0
I'm not sure I'm sold on the looks of the sill seam finisher, but then again my car has never had them.
That said, that seam is rather ugly.
The problem with the finisher is it is a nice moisture/dirt trap, perfect breeding ground for Rust.
I'm actually contemplating just getting some stick on plastic chrome door edging and just sticking it to the outside of the seam.


Was debating that for some time but its really easy.
When the car is fully primed its stuck on the rotisserie, flipped and the underside of the floor Raptor finish then top coat same as body, all 2k.
No hard edge mask on the body, just careful application underneath and allow feather out onto underside of sills etc but make sure inner and outer edges of sill seam/flange has good coat.
Prep and paint trimmed ready to go sill finishers, now the choice.
Either small drill holes in bottom edge of sill finisher, ( done before paint ) either spot fix with PU adhesive or use trim clips, same style as top wing finishers to attach trim finisher.
or my choice
Mock up and fit finisher, prep and paint, then fit finisher with  upper moulding trip clips, then using a grey PU adhesive carefully seal the edge of the trim to the flanges, pointy finger is best, push it in then wipe off excess so it cant be seen. Because you have painted the trim finisher first you can wipe the PU adhesive off easy with a good de-greaser.
Then when the body gets flipped over for top coat return mask off the rear of the already painted sill flange finisher, prep the paint on this front side,  the body can now be now prepped ready for paint and when you refinish no one will be able to notice the return mask on the bottom edge of the sill finisher. If it is a little bit harsh because you were heavy with the gun or forgot to remove the return mask and feather with some blend out thinner or slow thinner then hand off with G3 on this edge.

When I get to this stage I will put up some pics.
There are many ways for everything but this is prob the method I am using.

Ciao

David
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daedalusminos
August 9, 2017, 9:46pm Report to Moderator

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The following might prove a suitable stainless sill finisher:

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1504UFS6__Stainless_Edging_UFS6_12_70x3_30mm_Gap_Length_2540mm

At 3.30mm gap it's probably going to be a tight fit on the flange
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DavidGT71
August 10, 2017, 1:43pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
The following might prove a suitable stainless sill finisher:

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1504UFS6__Stainless_Edging_UFS6_12_70x3_30mm_Gap_Length_2540mm

At 3.30mm gap it's probably going to be a tight fit on the flange


That's a good find, thanks for the heads up.

£10 p&p and the chance of getting bent, Southampton isn't far and I'm always down that way, would be worth the money just to have a try,

Cheers

David

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DavidGT71
September 6, 2017, 12:45pm Report to Moderator

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Haven't done much or a write up as pics of rubbing filler and bodywork is as boring as doing it.

So the body is ready for some polyester spray filler and more blocking, but the hard work now means the poly will only hopefully need a 120 cut and finish.
Just have to finish the n\s head lamp finisher to the body as it doesn't fit as nice as I would like, will get a few pics of this area up later on.









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DavidGT71
September 6, 2017, 12:58pm Report to Moderator

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One thing the wife wanted was a seat belt that she didn't have to reach behind for, bad back and all that. She used to have an MGB and this had the issue and became a problem and the belt always used to get dropped on the sill, shut in the door etc. So this time I have tried to set the seat belt fixings up much like an every day driver. The roof fixing was reinforced with 1/2" box along the inner structure top and bottom of the fixing plate, which in turn has the securing nut welded on the internal side, so it cant pull thru the plate. Also the majority of the load on any fixing up there will be a shear load on the seat belt bolt its self, so this isn't going any where. I also made up a locating bracket on the rear arch with 2 lug to locate the reel part of the seat belt, nut and bracing plate for this welded on the reverse of the arch.

Sorry the pics of this are not very good but couldn't get any light in to show the install.





This does mean we have to penetrate the head lining for the top bolt fixing but we have welded the support just so it is under the headlining and doesn't put the headlining under any tension or cause any of it to show thru. Dad is in the process of making up a nice white and black ptfe decorative washer ( choice which looks best ) that will fit just around the top fixing to make a neat edge, this will be bonded in place with a vinyl weld
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