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71 GT6 Resto Print
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Mk3Mark.
August 9, 2017, 12:17am Report to Moderator

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Impressive high quality work there David, very impressed with how this looks and has come along.  
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DavidGT71
August 9, 2017, 7:50am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.
Impressive high quality work there David, very impressed with how this looks and has come along.  


Thanks

Off on hols tomorrow so will do a bit more on the photos front when I get home.

At the moment the body is back on and I have fabricated new seat belt mounts sop the wife can use inertia belts without the need to reach over her shoulder to grab the clasp/pin whatever.
Did a mod to mount the top fixing up high almost like a production car and reinforced that area of roof member. Given the top mounting bolt is under a shearing load rather than tension ( pulling ) the frame is super strong. Tried to take a couple of pics but the shots just come out dark, even with a flash. The area where the bolt comes thru the headlining we have fabbed the seat belt bolt mounting so it is just below the headlining so the headlining doesn't get pulled out of shape. Good old dad is turning up a decorative white PTFE washer to finish the headlining where the bolt passes thru to neaten it up.

Also found a sill seam/flange finisher which will work nicely. From what I can see the sill to floor seam was covered with a S/S finisher which is hard to get hold of now, so we have been looking for an alternative, our local metal fabricator man supplied a real nice length of U channel steel which fits perfectly over the seam. I know it should be S/S or that finish but we don't want the expense of chrome and zinc isn't man enough for that area so we have bu&&ered about and tried different things and its going to be painted body colour. Not OE but for the mock up it really neatens this up and looks nice to suit. Again, I will try some more photos when I get home from hols.
Cheers

David
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byakk0
August 9, 2017, 11:14am Report to Moderator


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I'm not sure I'm sold on the looks of the sill seam finisher, but then again my car has never had them.
That said, that seam is rather ugly.
The problem with the finisher is it is a nice moisture/dirt trap, perfect breeding ground for Rust.
I'm actually contemplating just getting some stick on plastic chrome door edging and just sticking it to the outside of the seam.


~Hazen
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DavidGT71
August 9, 2017, 12:16pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from byakk0
I'm not sure I'm sold on the looks of the sill seam finisher, but then again my car has never had them.
That said, that seam is rather ugly.
The problem with the finisher is it is a nice moisture/dirt trap, perfect breeding ground for Rust.
I'm actually contemplating just getting some stick on plastic chrome door edging and just sticking it to the outside of the seam.


Was debating that for some time but its really easy.
When the car is fully primed its stuck on the rotisserie, flipped and the underside of the floor Raptor finish then top coat same as body, all 2k.
No hard edge mask on the body, just careful application underneath and allow feather out onto underside of sills etc but make sure inner and outer edges of sill seam/flange has good coat.
Prep and paint trimmed ready to go sill finishers, now the choice.
Either small drill holes in bottom edge of sill finisher, ( done before paint ) either spot fix with PU adhesive or use trim clips, same style as top wing finishers to attach trim finisher.
or my choice
Mock up and fit finisher, prep and paint, then fit finisher with  upper moulding trip clips, then using a grey PU adhesive carefully seal the edge of the trim to the flanges, pointy finger is best, push it in then wipe off excess so it cant be seen. Because you have painted the trim finisher first you can wipe the PU adhesive off easy with a good de-greaser.
Then when the body gets flipped over for top coat return mask off the rear of the already painted sill flange finisher, prep the paint on this front side,  the body can now be now prepped ready for paint and when you refinish no one will be able to notice the return mask on the bottom edge of the sill finisher. If it is a little bit harsh because you were heavy with the gun or forgot to remove the return mask and feather with some blend out thinner or slow thinner then hand off with G3 on this edge.

When I get to this stage I will put up some pics.
There are many ways for everything but this is prob the method I am using.

Ciao

David
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daedalusminos
August 9, 2017, 9:46pm Report to Moderator

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The following might prove a suitable stainless sill finisher:

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1504UFS6__Stainless_Edging_UFS6_12_70x3_30mm_Gap_Length_2540mm

At 3.30mm gap it's probably going to be a tight fit on the flange
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DavidGT71
August 10, 2017, 1:43pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
The following might prove a suitable stainless sill finisher:

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1504UFS6__Stainless_Edging_UFS6_12_70x3_30mm_Gap_Length_2540mm

At 3.30mm gap it's probably going to be a tight fit on the flange


That's a good find, thanks for the heads up.

£10 p&p and the chance of getting bent, Southampton isn't far and I'm always down that way, would be worth the money just to have a try,

Cheers

David

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DavidGT71
September 6, 2017, 12:45pm Report to Moderator

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Haven't done much or a write up as pics of rubbing filler and bodywork is as boring as doing it.

So the body is ready for some polyester spray filler and more blocking, but the hard work now means the poly will only hopefully need a 120 cut and finish.
Just have to finish the n\s head lamp finisher to the body as it doesn't fit as nice as I would like, will get a few pics of this area up later on.









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DavidGT71
September 6, 2017, 12:58pm Report to Moderator

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One thing the wife wanted was a seat belt that she didn't have to reach behind for, bad back and all that. She used to have an MGB and this had the issue and became a problem and the belt always used to get dropped on the sill, shut in the door etc. So this time I have tried to set the seat belt fixings up much like an every day driver. The roof fixing was reinforced with 1/2" box along the inner structure top and bottom of the fixing plate, which in turn has the securing nut welded on the internal side, so it cant pull thru the plate. Also the majority of the load on any fixing up there will be a shear load on the seat belt bolt its self, so this isn't going any where. I also made up a locating bracket on the rear arch with 2 lug to locate the reel part of the seat belt, nut and bracing plate for this welded on the reverse of the arch.

Sorry the pics of this are not very good but couldn't get any light in to show the install.





This does mean we have to penetrate the head lining for the top bolt fixing but we have welded the support just so it is under the headlining and doesn't put the headlining under any tension or cause any of it to show thru. Dad is in the process of making up a nice white and black ptfe decorative washer ( choice which looks best ) that will fit just around the top fixing to make a neat edge, this will be bonded in place with a vinyl weld
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DavidGT71
October 25, 2017, 11:02am Report to Moderator

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Now finally managed to get some time to get the body and bonnet in polyester spray filler.

Put down a good coat of epoxy primer first over the bare metal and filled areas.







Re applied to the internal areas again over the bare metal and new 3M sprayable seam sealer and seam sealer



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DavidGT71
October 25, 2017, 11:07am Report to Moderator

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Then a late night but managed to get several good thick coats of polyester spray filler on. Such a slow process as the stuff is thick, even using a 2.0 tip and needle in the gun.
But 4 ltrs later it was done. Saturday will be another mammoth blocking session, rubbing most of the stuff onto the floor, dust up your nose and in every orifice.










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efp
October 25, 2017, 7:37pm Report to Moderator

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Very impressed by your fit and finish, great workmanship. Thought I was doing ok but you shame me. Will have to up my game


1967 Spitfire MkII, nearing end of restoration
1965 Land Rover S2A, awaiting MOT
2002 BMW 535i,  daily driver, 114k on the clock
2004 Mercedes CLK 200K, alternate daily driver, 143k on clock
1976 International 464 tractor....
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Nick Jones
October 25, 2017, 8:11pm Report to Moderator

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Some excellent work going on there.  You obviously have plenty of bodywork experience, especially with paint.

I'm envying the smooth lines of the bonnet bulge and the crisp crease below the tailgate where roofline meets the deck.  I'm going to have trouble with those due to previous damage......

Looking forward to seeing it in colour.  What paint system are you using for that?

Nick


Nick Jones
Somerset UK

Vitesse Mk 1.5 Convertible EFI, Survivor of RBRR 2008, HCR & 10CR 2009, HCR 2010, 10CR2011, HCR 2012, 10CR2013, 10CR2015, HCR 2016 & HCR 2017.
GT6 Mk3 Roto - project in progress
Spitfire MKIV son's project now on the road as a daily driver
2.5 PI Saloon now EFI (PIe?), Engine rebuilt and running sweet.  Diff howling...... Survivor of HCR 2013 & 2014 Gone to live in Swansea

http://www.tengaston.plus.com
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DavidGT71
October 26, 2017, 7:01am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from efp
Very impressed by your fit and finish, great workmanship. Thought I was doing ok but you shame me. Will have to up my game


Thanks, I'm sure yours is just as good. I'm afraid skills come with old age, its a cruel toss up, at the moment I would love to take a few years off, but you can never have time back, bugger.
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DavidGT71
October 26, 2017, 7:36am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Some excellent work going on there.  You obviously have plenty of bodywork experience, especially with paint.

I'm envying the smooth lines of the bonnet bulge and the crisp crease below the tailgate where roofline meets the deck.  I'm going to have trouble with those due to previous damage......

Looking forward to seeing it in colour.  What paint system are you using for that?

Nick


Thanks for the kind comments, I have been doing this sort of thing for as long as I can remember, I also turned a hobby into a business where I had a Classic Car and Sports Car restoration business.
I had the business for many many years but a combination of greedy landlord ( thought being busy meant £££££ ) too much work and a very young family meant one morning it came to a head, wasn't the money or the 12 / 14 hour days it was the getting cross with my little ones because I had quotes to do at home, VAT etc, went in the next morning and packed it all in.

If you can get most of the metal damage out of the rear you should be able to mask line the swage and block it back in, its amazing if you spend a bit of time with a long blade there on the polyester how much you should be able to pull it back.

I have never had a specific system as I use materials that I find the best, Polyester spray filler is Reface, really nice to work with, HB undercoat is either uPol or at the moment I have an old paint supplier that can still get DuPont HB medium to high VOC, old school 2K high build undercoats, its great stuff, so much better than the newer compliant low VOC stuff.
The epoxy sealer primer is Lecher 29107, blindingly good  product, use the clear and tint it to suit.
UPol hardeners, fast and med, I don't use Very fast hardeners as they can skin over too quick in warm weather causing solvent pop in some cases, the fast is quick enough to allow for solvent evaporation and a decent flowout. Top coat is either Standox or Sikkens, in some cases I will use ICI for satin black but I just don't like their material for some reason. If I'm doing a very special job then I will treat myself to Glasurit, my word this stuff is nice but it is horrendously expensive. The 66 Fastback Mustang I have just restored from the ground up I priced up the base coat in Glasurit and Standox, the Glasurit was over 3 times as expensive, Standox it was. All dry rubbing papers are Bullldog or 3M and all W&D ( I'm still old school wet finishing ) are 3M only.

I use the DeVilbiss Gti Pro guns with a T110 air cap at the moment, the air cap gives a great finish from the gun, in fact the finish from the air cap now has less peel than factory finishes.

Hope not too much info, but if it helps anyone.

Cheers
David



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DavidGT71
November 14, 2017, 3:32pm Report to Moderator

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So not a lot of progress as other things have kept me busy for the moment.
Rubbing the polyester, wonderful job no one ever said, still you might think the fit and finish is good, but being the car is going to be Midnight Blue ( my choice would have been yellow, but its going to be the wife's, and we all know not to disagree don't we ) it had to be hit in polyester, and it shows up all the flaws.

Some were obvious before I started rubbing but it is the only way of getting a finish ready for any dark colour.







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