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71 GT6 Resto Print
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DavidGT71
November 14, 2017, 3:35pm Report to Moderator

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Just a few more,





This is why I always like to block new panels, ideally in polyester, no new panel is perfect and ready to fit.










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BiTurbo228
November 14, 2017, 4:05pm Report to Moderator


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Excellent work, and really valuable stuff as I've got all of this to come in the next few weeks!

So, let me get the process right (correct me if I'm wrong!). First pass of epoxy primer followed by filler (P40 waterproof stuff or polyester?), followed by a second coat of epoxy primer to and another batch of polyester filling to sort out the remaining rippley bits.

I've always been somewhat wary of polyester fillers having taken a great plate of the stuff off my old door skin hiding a completely rusted out panel (lovely work though, no idea it was there before it fell off...)


1974 Triumph Spitfire 6 project
1973 Triumph Spitfire Slant 4 pre-project
1978 Triumph Spitfire (not sure of the plan yet)
1992 Jaguar XJ40 4.0l manual
1989 Jaguar XJ40 3.6 (parts car, squashed by a tree)
1999 Alfa 156 V6
1992 Citroen BX 19 TXD
1996 Lada Niva
1998 MG F VVT
1972 MG B GT (will be a Baja B eventually)

Spit6 photobucket: http://s12.photobucket.com/user/simon_storeyBiTurbo228/library/
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DavidGT71
November 14, 2017, 4:31pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from BiTurbo228
Excellent work, and really valuable stuff as I've got all of this to come in the next few weeks!

So, let me get the process right (correct me if I'm wrong!). First pass of epoxy primer followed by filler (P40 waterproof stuff or polyester?), followed by a second coat of epoxy primer to and another batch of polyester filling to sort out the remaining rippley bits.

I've always been somewhat wary of polyester fillers having taken a great plate of the stuff off my old door skin hiding a completely rusted out panel (lovely work though, no idea it was there before it fell off...)


Depends on your situation, If its long term then I have epoxied all the bare metal and then filled, means the bare metal is protected. You can fill quite safely on top of epoxy, well the ones I use. Should have said I do all the lead work first before any paint.

I then seal with another thin coat of epoxy if most of it has been rubbed off in the sanding process, use it as a sealer. If most of it is intact I would then spot seal/prime with it then apply the polyester.

I am real careful with the poly not to get it damp or wet, regardless of people saying you can wet flat, you can but then bake it dry. I wont take the chance so don't get it wet.

Once the poly is rubbed I coat it again with a grip and wet coat of epoxy sealer, only thin enough to seal the poly.

Undercoat and wet flat, then shiny bit.

Hope that helps explain, people will have different regimes, this is just the one that works best for me and given me the best trouble free results

Same process on this recent 5 year resto of mine








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Mk3Mark.
November 14, 2017, 5:28pm Report to Moderator

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Superb work David,i can see this is going to be one very nice GT6 when finished. When do you hope to apply the Midnight Blue? Cheers Mark.
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RedRooster
November 14, 2017, 5:45pm Report to Moderator


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DavidGT71,
very blue engine, so must be a 302?

RR


GT6 Mk3, the Rooster    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8W1XSjFB6g  tune on the radio the first time it broke down, 5 miles after i bought it
http://www.triumph-club-de-fra.....estauration-dune-gt6  
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DavidGT71
November 14, 2017, 6:43pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.
Superb work David,i can see this is going to be one very nice GT6 when finished. When do you hope to apply the Midnight Blue? Cheers Mark.


If it goes to plan I hope later this year, so that's January then
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DavidGT71
November 14, 2017, 6:46pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RedRooster
DavidGT71,
very blue engine, so must be a 302?

RR


It's a 289, it is a factory GT so kept it std with a 289.
Ford Corporate blue, and Ford tractor blue, not very exotic or racy but as close as I could get it to the 66 shade
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