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71 GT6 Resto Print
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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 11:03am Report to Moderator

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Thought I had better get on and start a resto thread, because some have been asking and also it is a good recall for the years of pain and anguish to follow.
I was on here as DavidGT73 but changed to to correspond with the correct year, 71, dad got confused and thought it was a 73.
The car was a resto my day started almost 10 years ago but old age and his increasing at the time motorbike and moped collection stalled it.
He now felt too old and lost the enthusiasm to go into the cold garage and finish it so I have inherited it, to speak.
Not many before phots as dad didn't take that many but a brief resume is:-
1971, non OD, Brown rusty GT6.
Dad stripped it and has replaced floors, rear wings, patched the roof section, part replaced the lower section of rear valance, inner where arches new, new bonnet and quarter valances.





He got some years ago a s/h chassis converted to take his or the new suspension, however when I started to mock up the bonnet with the body and doors nothing seemed to fit. It transpires that he had fitted the new rear wing skins slightly too far into the door aperture, I now have found after reading various bits on here that the skins can be the wrong size and not fit well, and I thought it was just the American Mustang panels that were a poor fit. So with the bonnet and tub bolted into the best position possible the rear wing was cut, bits removed, new bits let in and then leaded to make good.



No going back now



And a bit of lead work to make good


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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 11:09am Report to Moderator

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The other side wasn't that bad but the welding needed a bit of making good and then to finish a skim of lead.
I think they were originally lead loaded here as I found old traces on the top of the B post, so I followed suit.





And making good, The top of the door trailing edge here I had to let a piece in as it was starting to get thin.

As a foot note I'm not sure how much you lot like photos or long winded or short write ups etc. Let me know so this doesn't make good nodding off material.

Cheers

David




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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 11:17am Report to Moderator

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The doors were OE and in good nick and I didn't want to replace a skin just for the sake of it.
The O/S door wanted a repair on the lower section and that was it really.





Cocked up on the radius and had to use the shrinking blade to pull it in a bit.



And fitted ready to be fettled. Also the gaps were terrible all around, having read on here that this was the norm apparently I have tried to set about correcting this, this door has had the old welding wire trick to close up gaps and get them parallel without the use of filler etc.

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RedRooster
June 28, 2017, 7:55pm Report to Moderator


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Just make sure you wash off all the flux before you apply lead, a soda mix is good to neutralise it.


GT6 Mk3, the Rooster    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8W1XSjFB6g  tune on the radio the first time it broke down, 5 miles after i bought it
http://www.triumph-club-de-fra.....estauration-dune-gt6  
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DavidGT71
June 28, 2017, 8:31pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RedRooster
Just make sure you wash off all the flux before you apply lead, a soda mix is good to neutralise it.


That's right, any good alkaline base mix will do, an old boy who taught me how to do lead work about 35 years ago said that good old fashioned washing powder mix was one of the best things, and cleaned his hands in the process before he went home, Or vegetarians pee, this is alkaline , the washing powder is great, never had the nerve to try veggie pee.

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byakk0
June 29, 2017, 6:59am Report to Moderator


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I love a good GT6 resto (see mine as linked below). Keep up with the good work, photos and descriptions.


~Hazen
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Contact me if you need a hinge cover for your GT6
3rd brakelight option now available.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
67 Mk1 GT6 (rebuild here--> http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1397446003/ <--)
{{{My apologies. I've used Photobucket for many of my photos. Due to changes at photobucket you may need to right click and open the pic in a new tab in order to view them. You can try [url]http://http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0[/url] to see past entries as I am able to go back and edit}}}
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 1:28pm Report to Moderator

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The alignment of the door to sill to bonnet was a real issue, I'm not sure if the sills were slightly out or dimensions wrong or perhaps just fitted a bit out, or they just don't give the satisfactory gap wanted, however as they were well and truly on the only option was to correct some of the angle gaps with a welding weld trick.



The curve runs neatly with the door bottom and now runs up and aligns with the new bonnet edge.

The sill wasn't quite high enough to the door bottom, so this was raised the thickness of a welding wire and then sanded down to give a parallel gap.

.

Once ready I will lead most of these gaps and making good.

The O/S already done to meet the curvature of the door bottom and to get the lines running up into the new bonnet trailing edge somewhere reasonable


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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 1:39pm Report to Moderator

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The bonnet was proving to be a real issue and no matter how I tried to adjust this I could not get the bonnet edge close to the scuttle or door.
Any attempt to move it cause real issues with the alignment of the sill into bonnet wheel arch alignment, into the bonnet wheel arch alignment into front quarter panel, or to make matters worse really cocked up the alignment and view of the bonnet with bumper etc.
Its a job to explain but any of you who must have done this will know what I am talking about.

After a week of evenings bu&&erring with this it transpired that the edge of the new bonnet was 1/8th inch shorter on the O/S and the top of it where it meets the scuttle/door top edge was a different shape, Woooooooonderful.
As dad bought the bonnet over 8 years ago sending it back wasn't an option so I had to remove the top small bit of return edge of the bonnet on the o/s trailing edge, welding wire to the rescue, welded to extend the trailing edge and then weld back on the return to finish the bonnet. Fits like a glove, not sure if this shows it or not.






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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 1:44pm Report to Moderator

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No door but you get the idea



And now with a quick fiddle we get a fairly decent bonnet to bumper and to quarter valance gaps.



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Mk3Mark.
June 29, 2017, 2:51pm Report to Moderator

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What an absolute nightmare David,i'm surprised the Heritage bonnet was out that much! I've done a few jobs on a couple of these over 25 years ago now and always found using the Original panels an excellent fit mostly. Don't forget to Galvanise it when your finished to add a bit of Vorsprung durch Technik. Lol .  Even though we love an Audi or 2   (no more rust and welding when i switched over) you've got to agree a GT6 Mk3 is a stunning looking car when done right,i've always loved them.Keep up the good work mate! 👍
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daedalusminos
June 29, 2017, 3:15pm Report to Moderator

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Were they heritage sills? I've found heritage panels to be a perfect fit so far
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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 3:20pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.
What an absolute nightmare David,i'm surprised the Heritage bonnet was out that much! I've done a few jobs on a couple of these over 25 years ago now and always found using the Original panels an excellent fit mostly. Don't forget to Galvanise it when your finished to add a bit of Vorsprung durch Technik. Lol .  Even though we love an Audi or 2   (no more rust and welding when i switched over) you've got to agree a GT6 Mk3 is a stunning looking car when done right,i've always loved them.Keep up the good work mate! 👍


I wont be galvoing it, as any paints like this can lead to adhesion problems of other products, although believe it or not good old screwfix do a really good zinc rich spray. I tried one as a short cut measure years ago as I was out of weld thru primer, crikey it really is zinc rich, so all of the bare metal on patches and prior to welding get a good old coat. Any welding will burn off on the welds but this is good gear.

I use epoxy primers now and have done so for years, the old acid etch stuff was superseded by this years ago, the Lechler and Mipa epoxy sealer/primers are great products, and fantastic for bare metals and a good base prior to any filling and paint process. Yep the Audi is holding up fantastic at the moment, and its on the list after the GT6, and the wife has chosen the colour as the GT6 will be her car.
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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 3:26pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
Were they heritage sills? I've found heritage panels to be a perfect fit so far


I have no idea, my dad purchased this lot I think over 10 years ago, I think he got the lot from Rimmers, or it could have been he used Moss, like I said I cant remember, and I think he has forgot, we keep finding boxes of bits though.
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daedalusminos
June 29, 2017, 3:32pm Report to Moderator

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No matter, you're doing good remedial work. Also your lead loading of the B-post looks spot-on.
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Mk3Mark.
June 29, 2017, 3:55pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from DavidGT71


The wife has chosen the colour as the GT6 will be her car.


Go on spill the beans, what colour will it be?
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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 4:05pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.


Go on spill the beans, what colour will it be?


Not OE but the Memsaab has chosen Midnight Blue, BL/Triumph blue, very dark, She wanted it black but 1 black car in the family is enough.
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DavidGT71
June 29, 2017, 4:07pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
No matter, you're doing good remedial work. Also your lead loading of the B-post looks spot-on.


Thanks, had a bit of practise over the years  

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DavidGT71
July 5, 2017, 12:51pm Report to Moderator

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So not much to show for the last few days apart from prep work, sanding and grinding, and more sanding, you get the picture.

Managed to get the tub on the rotisserie though, adapted the Mustang brackets without too much work, and make the job a lot easier.



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DavidGT71
July 17, 2017, 9:22am Report to Moderator

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So another milestone so to speak.
Been a long dirty 2 weeks or so of finish welding, grinding and sanding to to get to this.



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DavidGT71
July 17, 2017, 9:24am Report to Moderator

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The inside was more of a pig due to all of the sharp edges and bits designed to cut and stab you on purpose.



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DavidGT71
July 17, 2017, 9:32am Report to Moderator

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However it does mean I was able to get a good coat of epoxy sealer/primer everywhere, a great base ready for filling and shaping.
This was the Mipa product, I usually use the Lechler epoxy LS107, however a mate recommended the Mipa,. Goes on well but dries flat, even though is still soft to touch till dry. The Lechler has a sheen finish, clear and tintable which I think I prefer. The Mipa comes black, and by f does it stain the skin, the glove had a small split and nothing is shifting this paint, I suppose its a good recommendation that it will be good on the car.








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yorkshire_spam
July 17, 2017, 10:54am Report to Moderator

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looking awesome!
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DavidGT71
July 17, 2017, 11:38am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from yorkshire_spam
looking awesome!


Thanks, still got the doors to do but they are easy peasy, so glad the bonnet is new and don't have to strip that.

David
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daedalusminos
July 17, 2017, 12:20pm Report to Moderator

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Very nice work, I'm a couple of steps (years) behind and just designing the rotisserie. How high up is your CG from the bulkhead mounting brackets?
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DavidGT71
July 17, 2017, 12:47pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
Very nice work, I'm a couple of steps (years) behind and just designing the rotisserie. How high up is your CG from the bulkhead mounting brackets?


I will have a measure tonight.
It is pretty close, I can swing the body with one hand.

Its a very heavy duty rotisserie, I built it to cope with a 66 Mustang, so if there are any slight misalignments the structure doesn't move.
I should imaging if you build a lighter weight one then the C of G would need to be perfect to avoid any movement or twisting I would have thought.

Regards

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daedalusminos
July 17, 2017, 3:55pm Report to Moderator

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That will be great!

Since my chassis is twisted, I plan to make a sub-chassis to mount the tub on to repair. This will sit below the floorplans and therefore lower the CG but your dimension will give me a maximum height.

What steel dins did you make yours from? I'm planning 70mm x 70mm x 3mm
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DavidGT71
July 17, 2017, 8:12pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
That will be great!

Since my chassis is twisted, I plan to make a sub-chassis to mount the tub on to repair. This will sit below the floorplans and therefore lower the CG but your dimension will give me a maximum height.

What steel dins did you make yours from? I'm planning 70mm x 70mm x 3mm


Hi
The front measurement from the CL of the pivot to the bottom of the front mountings ( if that makes sense) is 14"
From the CL of the rear pivot to the centre of the rear bumper mounts is 4"
This brings both rotisserie pivots CL in line.
I think it is slightly bottom heavy, but only slightly so you could reduce these measurements by 1/2 to 1" but is would be trial and error.

Not sure if you have done many of these before but even with a roof I wouldn't rebuild on a rotisserie. Always rebuild it from a level you know is correct. I have a square adjustable frame made from 9x6 steel I section, I can pull the side in and move the ends about to accommodate most vehicles, this way all measurements are taken from this so you know they will be the same o/s and n/s and front to back.
If you cant do this then I would suggest getting the chassis you are going to use, check it for level and square and build from this but use steel or solid packers, not rubber etc.
The last thing you want is to weld it on a rotisserie and find it pulls out of shape when bolting back onto the chassis.

I can get some more dims tomorrow on the box section.

Cheers

David


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daedalusminos
July 19, 2017, 4:52pm Report to Moderator

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Excellent, thanks for that, it'll give me a starting dimension for the CG.

I'll be heavily cross bracing the shell on the flat so hopefully repair on sub-chassis should be OK......fingers crossed
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DavidGT71
July 20, 2017, 8:03am Report to Moderator

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Slow progress, only managed to get the seam sealing done inside and out, but made sure I got the most important seams and joints covered with my fav sealer, 3M 2k, fantastic sealer, modern OE finish I know but the best on the market.

Once ready the floor will get a coat of grey Raptor stone chip / bed liner then we are going to finish it body colour.



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DavidGT71
July 20, 2017, 8:10am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
That will be great!

Since my chassis is twisted, I plan to make a sub-chassis to mount the tub on to repair. This will sit below the floorplans and therefore lower the CG but your dimension will give me a maximum height.

What steel dins did you make yours from? I'm planning 70mm x 70mm x 3mm


Here you go



Left the bit of paper at home with the dims on, but I seem to remember these were 80mm and 70mm, I think the 80mm was approx. 2.5 or 3mm, leaving a nice gap to allow the inner box to slide in.
I think I went to 3-4mm for the 70 mm as these would be taking most of the bending force. Anyway its kin heavy but extremely safe and solid. The triangulated box supports are 50mm x 2.5mm

The pivot tubes I have a ptfe strip bearing each end of the pivot tube, most home jobbies I see are just greased metal to metal, with the 3-4mm ptfe strip bearing I can replace this at any time if it wears and it also means I don't have cacking grease around the car while doing the body work and it rotates nice and smooth.

Cheers

David


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Mk3Mark.
August 9, 2017, 12:17am Report to Moderator

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Impressive high quality work there David, very impressed with how this looks and has come along.  
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DavidGT71
August 9, 2017, 7:50am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Mk3Mark.
Impressive high quality work there David, very impressed with how this looks and has come along.  


Thanks

Off on hols tomorrow so will do a bit more on the photos front when I get home.

At the moment the body is back on and I have fabricated new seat belt mounts sop the wife can use inertia belts without the need to reach over her shoulder to grab the clasp/pin whatever.
Did a mod to mount the top fixing up high almost like a production car and reinforced that area of roof member. Given the top mounting bolt is under a shearing load rather than tension ( pulling ) the frame is super strong. Tried to take a couple of pics but the shots just come out dark, even with a flash. The area where the bolt comes thru the headlining we have fabbed the seat belt bolt mounting so it is just below the headlining so the headlining doesn't get pulled out of shape. Good old dad is turning up a decorative white PTFE washer to finish the headlining where the bolt passes thru to neaten it up.

Also found a sill seam/flange finisher which will work nicely. From what I can see the sill to floor seam was covered with a S/S finisher which is hard to get hold of now, so we have been looking for an alternative, our local metal fabricator man supplied a real nice length of U channel steel which fits perfectly over the seam. I know it should be S/S or that finish but we don't want the expense of chrome and zinc isn't man enough for that area so we have bu&&ered about and tried different things and its going to be painted body colour. Not OE but for the mock up it really neatens this up and looks nice to suit. Again, I will try some more photos when I get home from hols.
Cheers

David
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byakk0
August 9, 2017, 11:14am Report to Moderator


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I'm not sure I'm sold on the looks of the sill seam finisher, but then again my car has never had them.
That said, that seam is rather ugly.
The problem with the finisher is it is a nice moisture/dirt trap, perfect breeding ground for Rust.
I'm actually contemplating just getting some stick on plastic chrome door edging and just sticking it to the outside of the seam.


~Hazen
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Contact me if you need a hinge cover for your GT6
3rd brakelight option now available.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
67 Mk1 GT6 (rebuild here--> http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1397446003/ <--)
{{{My apologies. I've used Photobucket for many of my photos. Due to changes at photobucket you may need to right click and open the pic in a new tab in order to view them. You can try [url]http://http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0[/url] to see past entries as I am able to go back and edit}}}
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


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DavidGT71
August 9, 2017, 12:16pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from byakk0
I'm not sure I'm sold on the looks of the sill seam finisher, but then again my car has never had them.
That said, that seam is rather ugly.
The problem with the finisher is it is a nice moisture/dirt trap, perfect breeding ground for Rust.
I'm actually contemplating just getting some stick on plastic chrome door edging and just sticking it to the outside of the seam.


Was debating that for some time but its really easy.
When the car is fully primed its stuck on the rotisserie, flipped and the underside of the floor Raptor finish then top coat same as body, all 2k.
No hard edge mask on the body, just careful application underneath and allow feather out onto underside of sills etc but make sure inner and outer edges of sill seam/flange has good coat.
Prep and paint trimmed ready to go sill finishers, now the choice.
Either small drill holes in bottom edge of sill finisher, ( done before paint ) either spot fix with PU adhesive or use trim clips, same style as top wing finishers to attach trim finisher.
or my choice
Mock up and fit finisher, prep and paint, then fit finisher with  upper moulding trip clips, then using a grey PU adhesive carefully seal the edge of the trim to the flanges, pointy finger is best, push it in then wipe off excess so it cant be seen. Because you have painted the trim finisher first you can wipe the PU adhesive off easy with a good de-greaser.
Then when the body gets flipped over for top coat return mask off the rear of the already painted sill flange finisher, prep the paint on this front side,  the body can now be now prepped ready for paint and when you refinish no one will be able to notice the return mask on the bottom edge of the sill finisher. If it is a little bit harsh because you were heavy with the gun or forgot to remove the return mask and feather with some blend out thinner or slow thinner then hand off with G3 on this edge.

When I get to this stage I will put up some pics.
There are many ways for everything but this is prob the method I am using.

Ciao

David
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daedalusminos
August 9, 2017, 9:46pm Report to Moderator

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The following might prove a suitable stainless sill finisher:

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1504UFS6__Stainless_Edging_UFS6_12_70x3_30mm_Gap_Length_2540mm

At 3.30mm gap it's probably going to be a tight fit on the flange
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DavidGT71
August 10, 2017, 1:43pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daedalusminos
The following might prove a suitable stainless sill finisher:

http://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/1504UFS6__Stainless_Edging_UFS6_12_70x3_30mm_Gap_Length_2540mm

At 3.30mm gap it's probably going to be a tight fit on the flange


That's a good find, thanks for the heads up.

£10 p&p and the chance of getting bent, Southampton isn't far and I'm always down that way, would be worth the money just to have a try,

Cheers

David

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