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Rebuilding rear hubs... Print
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JimEB
July 24, 2017, 7:34pm Report to Moderator
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Hello  

I keep reading that rebuilding a rear hub is a job for pros, but I'm sure that folk here must've done it successfully! The left one on my PI feels fine, but is rumbling at high speed...

What kit and specific advice would one need?

Thanks!


Now the owner of a very naughty Pimento 1973 PI Saloon   (it's all Nick Jones' fault)

Grew up with a 2000 Estate (OJE196J) and my first car was a 2500TC Saloon (WCA964R) - both no longer with us  
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Jonny-Jimbo
July 24, 2017, 9:39pm Report to Moderator

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I've got some saloon shafts knocking around Jim if you want to save the fuss of rebuilding...


62 Vitesse 1600 - Slammed & modified
67 2000 - Fitted with 2.5 o/d - 2012 RBRR, 2015 Essex Rally, 2016 HCR, 2016 RBRR
67 2000 Estate - Dormant
70 Herald 13/60 - First car, many bits
77 CZ 125 Sport - 70 miles on the clock
77 Kawasaki KM90 - Shop hack
81 Yamaha DT125 - Many bits
88 Ginetta G4/4 - Dead
88 BMW E30 320i - For Sale
89 Citroen AX GT - Rally car!
90 BMW E30 318iS - Building to FIA spec
90 Mazda Eunos 1.6 - 'Popeye'
93 BMW 530i - Donor
95 BMW E34 540i - 4L V8
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ed_h
July 25, 2017, 4:27am Report to Moderator

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Doing rear hubs is not something to take on casually, but a determined person with some workshop experience can be successful.  This might help you decide whether to take it on:

http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-36/TR6-36.html

Ed
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Hogie
July 25, 2017, 9:02am Report to Moderator
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Hi Folks,
               not sure about which hubs your are referring to..
However if they are anything like the TR hubs do remember that after you replace the bearings, seals, crush tube etc you still have a 50 year old stub axle.

These do break
It is not fail safe (although a good design within its working life
They can't be inspected - even when the axle is laying on the bench - the cracking mode/material is too rapid.

DO NOT fit refurb'd hubs unless you know that the axle is new.

The failure is age related
Fat tyres, kerbing, uprated shocks etc have no detrimental effect - it is age.

Roger (tin hat in place)


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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piman
July 25, 2017, 11:51am Report to Moderator


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Hello all,

a couple of comments on the link in post 2-3.

He doesn't say but using a big hammer on the puller jacking screw once it is wound up really tight is a big help, a couple of good raps, then tighten more if it will, eventually it will release, usually violently.
He thinks that using the studs to pull on isn't any better than a three legged puller. I would disagree as the pullers only engage on the rim, the studs are closer in and I seem to remember that they are also a little thicker at the back where the head of the stud fits?
Any bearing assembly that is being greased as per his mod needs a vent hole so excess grease can escape, a fully filled bearing housing without a vent will overheat, generally space should be left in a sealed bearing housing.

Good luck if you decide to have a go Jim.

Alec


Oswestry, Shropshire.

Mk1 1\2 P.I.,Jaguar Mk 2, very long term restoration. Jaguar X Type estate 2.5, Hymer 564 motorhome.
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JimEB
July 25, 2017, 8:36pm Report to Moderator
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Rapidly coming to the conclusion that I don't have the kit/time to attempt this...



Now the owner of a very naughty Pimento 1973 PI Saloon   (it's all Nick Jones' fault)

Grew up with a 2000 Estate (OJE196J) and my first car was a 2500TC Saloon (WCA964R) - both no longer with us  
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ed_h
July 25, 2017, 10:13pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from piman


He thinks that using the studs to pull on isn't any better than a three legged puller.


Alec--

The article comes to the exact opposite conclusion--pulling from the studs is far superior to pulling from the rim of the flange, for the reasons you cite.

Also, the hub certainly isn't air (or grease) tight.  Any internal pressure should easily vent through the bearings and seals.  Still, it's best not to over-grease.

Ed

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piman
July 26, 2017, 8:57am Report to Moderator


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Hello Ed,

It was this " I don't believe a thicker puller flange prevents bending at all." that  was why I made that comment.

A seal is a seal not a pressure relief device. Far simple to drill a second vent hole.

Alec


Oswestry, Shropshire.

Mk1 1\2 P.I.,Jaguar Mk 2, very long term restoration. Jaguar X Type estate 2.5, Hymer 564 motorhome.
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RobPearce
July 26, 2017, 12:48pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from piman
It was this " I don't believe a thicker puller flange prevents bending at all." that  was why I made that comment.

But he immediately follows that statement with a comment that it's still pulling on the studs, so he clearly wasn't comparing against a 3-leg type. What that quote addresses was a claim that beefing up the same design of puller magically reduces stress on the bits the puller doesn't attach to, which seems reasonable to query.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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piman
July 30, 2017, 6:53pm Report to Moderator


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Hello Rob,

Ok, perhaps I put the wrong interpretation on it?

Alec


Oswestry, Shropshire.

Mk1 1\2 P.I.,Jaguar Mk 2, very long term restoration. Jaguar X Type estate 2.5, Hymer 564 motorhome.
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Pete Lewis
August 1, 2017, 5:42pm Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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I looked long and hard at this when refurbing the rear suspension and sticky shafts

got  exchange units  from j paddocks they are now £210 incl  the 100 surcharge

no troubles so far  and  polly bushes a good   clean and regrease the slip joints has  cured the  roll torque twitch  

pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Hogie
August 2, 2017, 9:18am Report to Moderator
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Hi Pete,
            are the 2000 hubs the same/similar to the TR4A/5/6 hubs with back to back taper bearings and a supposed 0.002 - 0.004 end float.

If they are, has yours got the end float.

I purchased two new hubs from a big TR parts supplier that build there own.
They look good and they run very well indeed. I have done a good 8000 miles since April

However they have no detectable end float.  Using the method in the ST workshop manual it is not possible to see end float.
The builders have had no luck in achieving or detect end float.

It would be interesting to see if Paddocks has this end float.

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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Pete Lewis
August 2, 2017, 11:52am Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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as far as i could see they are common across the range the changes being circlip or staked UJ cups.

they come poly wrapped from i guess  from a supplier elsewhere.  used JP due to cheaper , + quick surcharge returns

float did concern me   the 'new' hubs seemed to have pre load, quite damped to turn , anyway theyre on and done about 1500 m without any side effects showing so far .  give it another 10 years an we will know the answer if it gets that far

and were all running direct drive  electric rubbish  Grrrr!!!  with no shafts to ponder.


Pete


1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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Hogie
August 2, 2017, 1:04pm Report to Moderator
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Hi Pete,
             mine were quite stiff to turn from new.
There should be NO pre-load - it should (in theory) be loose but only just. As mentioned above 0.002" and a gnats.

Were your hubs completely new or do they still have the original stub axle in.

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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Pete Lewis
August 3, 2017, 11:31am Report to Moderator

Tssc Herts and Beds A.O.
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being exchange i guess they are 'reconditioned'  certainly the faces had been skimmed.  I often feel i should drop them off and see how they have  lets say'bedded in '   but afraid thats a job way down the list , but with no rumbles whine or whatever Ive left them alone

I nearly took them off to fit the new stag  handbrake expanders , but just released the hsg to get the strut through the gap and fight the springs on. the hand brake is still wonderful   , they are identical except the bell crank is 15mm longer
and  being available much cheaper than 2000 ones

Pete



1964 1600 Vitesse 6 Cactus and Black , now  sold
now have T2000   Mk2 saloon in French Blue/grey trim  been  restored without running since 1997
now has power steering ,poly bushed and Alfa 156 seats
location  Luton
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