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RedRooster
August 8, 2017, 12:18pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from JohnD

RR,
A spreader plate between the bolt holes?   The flange is already indented in the pressing to stiffen the flange between the bolts, and there are spreaders between some holes, at the back.    I don't see how more will help.
JOhn


the indents can't be working then or you wouldn't need to hammer the bolt holes flat again.
RR


GT6 Mk3, the Rooster    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8W1XSjFB6g  tune on the radio the first time it broke down, 5 miles after i bought it
http://www.triumph-club-de-fra.....estauration-dune-gt6  
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ferny
August 8, 2017, 1:24pm Report to Moderator

Mr Hoppy!
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Quoted from JohnD

Ferny,
Yes? and what is that reason?

JOhn


To seal it.


Acclaim - fully working and on the road
13/60 Herald - mx5 powered and other such fun things, legal enough...
Mk1 2000 - it's still alive, just sleeping
Expert 815d - the slug

If in doubt, do up until you hear the crack and then go another 1/4 turn to ensure tightness.
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Hogie
August 9, 2017, 8:25am Report to Moderator
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Roger,
Fascinating!  How does a wooden hammer/ mallet compress, yet not spread the material?  How does a nylon hammer improve the 'finish', when all we want is a good seal?   Please show us your mallet with a head small enough to do the above job?   And please note my comments on controlling the force of the blows.



JOhn[/quote]



Hi John,
             I'm not a panel beater but have learnt  a few things from a friend.
Take the example that you wanted to put a 90' bend in a piece of sheet steel. The bend also has  6" radius (compound curve).
The edge of the steel for the flat sheet is longer than  the edge of the finished article.
So you need to bend it on a dolly and somehow shrink the metal - otherwise it will pucker.

If you used a steel hammer each blow would tend to try and squish the metal and this make it bigger (stretch)
Using a wooden hammer/mallet that is softer than the steel the metal would bend but as it is trying to get more metal into a smaller place the metal would now start to compress'shrink.

So you get a neat finish with the wooden hammer than the steel.

Very bad explanation  but I'm sure there are good tin bashers on here that will explain better.

Rather than a smaller nylon hammer use a smaller nylon dolly.

http://www.hotbikeweb.com/shrinking-metal-with-mallet-stump

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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Hogie
August 9, 2017, 8:30am Report to Moderator
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Quoted from RedRooster


the indents can't be working then or you wouldn't need to hammer the bolt holes flat again.
RR



The indents between the holes support the flange material. They do not support the bolt holes.
The indents have to finish away from the holes and so the hole can get distorted.
Without the indents there would be oil passing out everywhere.

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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RedRooster
August 9, 2017, 9:15am Report to Moderator


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I know that which is why i mentioned a stiffener plate earlier.


GT6 Mk3, the Rooster    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8W1XSjFB6g  tune on the radio the first time it broke down, 5 miles after i bought it
http://www.triumph-club-de-fra.....estauration-dune-gt6  
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Gt6s
August 9, 2017, 1:18pm Report to Moderator


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Quoted from 1968Vitesse25


Fit sump gasket with a bead of Hylosil 300 RTV

no more sump leaks.


NO WAY once you have seen lines of silicone sealant hanging like snotters out of an oil pump strainer it puts you off the stuff. I use nothing more than a smear of grease on both sides of paper gaskets. Done that for years on cars, Trucks, Heavy plant, Fuel tanker delivery pumps, filter blocks and manifolds works on coolants air/fuel, and hydraulics. Bonus IN AN EMERGENCY you can reuse the gasket.

Laurence


I remember being wrong once before Laurence Cochrane Newtownards Northern Ireland. 1972 Gt6 2600EFI The Mutt. Some original parts fitted, Not many ! Early PI motor overbored to 2.6. Lightened & balanced, ported chambered, cam'd 6-3-1 manifold. Running on DTA engine management system incorperating the PI throttle bodies fitted with electronic injectors and throttle position sensor. 0-60 4.7s & 7000rpm. Seriously annoys owners of modern stuff ! (particularly coz its a heap) 2500 S box with competition 28% od. 3.63 diff with a quaife in it, innit ! Rotoflex based rear but with a swing spring fitted & sliding shafts.(swing spring rotoflex without rotoflex's). Koni's front Spax rear. Hydraulic handbrake. Citroen xantia discs 11,1/4 in dia under Morris Garages 15 in Maestro alloys.
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JohnD
August 9, 2017, 4:48pm Report to Moderator


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Roger,
That guy is clearly an expert, but I fear he misinterprets what he is doing.

The disk he demonstrated needed to be  made it into a bowl.     That's what happens if you hammer the centre of the bowl, and leave the rim untouched.
But the hammering must be right up to the rim, whose rim will crinkle if you stretch the adjacent metal too little.
He removes the crinkle by hammering just inside the rim, to stretch it more.

I do know whereof I speak - the 'bonnet bulges' on SofS and it's dad, Silverback were my work.

John




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Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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Hogie
August 11, 2017, 9:06am Report to Moderator
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Hi John,
          perhaps I posted the wrong/inappropriate video clip.

Making bulges is easy (sort of) shrinking the flange (or better still NOT expanding it) is more difficult.

Steel hammers are not the way forward for shrinking.

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
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JohnD
August 11, 2017, 11:39am Report to Moderator


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Roger,
Panel beating is indeed an art, and every artist has their own way.
I'm happy to be a beginner!

JOhn


Serial Vitesse racer.

Old Blue.  1995-2001
Silverback. 2001-2007
SofS. 2007 - to date.

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