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cliftyhanger
December 13, 2017, 7:13am Report to Moderator

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I have had it a couple of times on my Toledo.
It has always been damp leads, and these are newish OEM leads, not aftermarket brands. A waft over with a hot air gun for a couple of minutes and all is well.
"Luckily" it only happens when the car has been left for a few days or more, never just overnight.

Probably ought to get some silicone leads, so may buy some from "mr retro leads" chappie (fitchetts)


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
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Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 9:17am Report to Moderator

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Paula, maybe not a professional idiot, but how about "gifted amateur".


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Paula
December 13, 2017, 12:42pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from herald948


Does that require special testing or certification in the UK? I'm asking, because here in the US it seems almost a birthright.

p.s. Paula, I don't believe you really are a professional idiot; certainly not given your choice of motorcar!  



It's awarded on merit. But you are continuingly assessed so it's important to do stupid things every now and then just in case someones watching.
Like when i called the garage out after they had balanced my carbs and i only made it half a mile down the road. Only to find out i'd run out of petrol.

Oh wait!
Have you run out of petrol?  


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
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glang
December 13, 2017, 12:51pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Paula
I'm a professional idiot, so i have an idiot suggestion.

Firing order?




hey Id say its more a case of grasshopper becoming the master
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Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 1:48pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Paula


It's awarded on merit. But you are continuingly assessed so it's important to do stupid things every now and then just in case someones watching.
Like when i called the garage out after they had balanced my carbs and i only made it half a mile down the road. Only to find out i'd run out of petrol.

Oh wait!
Have you run out of petrol?  


Funny you should mention that . . . filled up a jerry can while out this afternoon. Tank is low, I did wonder so put the lever in the reserve position the other day it didn't start.  

It's the thought that counts. I suppose you thought I was that stupid - don't answer that please.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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daver clasper
December 13, 2017, 2:27pm Report to Moderator
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I know you hadn't had dizzy cap off, but the contact from top of cap to rotor arm
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Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 3:16pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from daver clasper
I know you hadn't had dizzy cap off, but the contact from top of cap to rotor arm


I'm going to look at that just in case I accidentally dislodged something when removing the plugs.

Every little helps, thanks.



Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Pete Arnold
December 13, 2017, 6:07pm Report to Moderator

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And unlike my last comment, here's a sensible suggestion.

Many years ago in a Ford Escort on the way home from a North Wales stage rally which had been cancelled due to the amount of snow, I got stuck in a drift on the A5.  Once I'd shovelled enough snow away I turned the key - silence!  

I had to wait about 3 hours for a snow plough to come along and the driver offered to give me a tow start.  Before tying on the tow rope I gave the key another turn and of course the car started perfectly!!!

To cut short a long story, several days later the fault proved to be an intermittent one in the condenser.  But it's so long ago that I can't remember how we proved the condenser was at fault.


Signal Red - 1967 MkI Vitesse Saloon - North Bucks
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Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 7:12pm Report to Moderator

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Pete thanks for the "sensible" suggestion, your comment about the gas fitter & safety matches was funnier though.
The car has Acuspark so no condenser.

I'm having to be patient as I can't get on with it for a few days yet -  very frustrating as the response from everyone is great, as usual
To show my appreciation I eventually got round to joining the club today, been meaning to do so for ages but you know how it goes ...
At least my stock of rum, single malt and Irish should last until I can attack the problem.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Beans
December 13, 2017, 7:31pm Report to Moderator

Theo Boonen
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Quoted from Rosbif
...  I eventually got round to joining the club today ...

That is a good starting pooint I also see you have an electronic ignition.
If all basic (wiring & connectors) checks give no result you could try to change back to points to rule out the ignition module ...




1976 TR7 FHC (bought for its wheels in 2013, currently undergoing some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (a.k.a. Kermette, my first car bought in 1988 )
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined, a.k.a. 't Kreng, bought as a parts donor in 1994, the rest is history as they say)

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/
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Pete Arnold
December 13, 2017, 11:41pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Rosbif

The car has Acuspark so no condenser.


Shows how much (= little) I know about electrics as mine has Lumenition and I'd never realised there was no need for a condenser!!!



Signal Red - 1967 MkI Vitesse Saloon - North Bucks
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rustbuckit2011
December 14, 2017, 3:01am Report to Moderator


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If you have inadvertantly left the car with the key switch in Ign. You may very well have burnt out the accuspark (Ive had the same problem before)
Beans is right- swap in the old points and see if it kicks over


1960 Herald Coupe Replica - mazda, datsun, and all over the garage floor
1964 Herald 1200 coupe - standard.

https://www.facebook.com/rust.buckit.94
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RobPearce
December 14, 2017, 8:45am Report to Moderator

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Quoted from Pete Arnold
Shows how much (= little) I know about electrics as mine has Lumenition and I'd never realised there was no need for a condenser!!!


Technically, there probably still is a condenser (modern name "capacitor") inside the electronic box, doing a very similar job to the condenser on a points system, but protecting a transistor rather than a mechanical switch.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
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aleksandar
December 14, 2017, 10:30am Report to Moderator
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Mr Rosbif.
Ignition operated, engine turns over as normal but does not ‘fire up’.
So this is what I check.
AIR
Carburettor dash pot off, piston out, confirm throttle and choke operation operates butterfly correctly. Any problems sort and then try starting again. If all is okay great, otherwise move on.
FUEL
After cranking without starting take off float bowl cover with fuel pipe still attached. Is there the correct amount of fuel in there? If no then place float bowl cover over jam jar so float hangs down and operate ignition. Is there a blockage? If yes sort and whilst at it blow out jet to bowl then try restarting. If there is no blockage, and fuel flows correctly, then move on.
SPARK
Confirm that the distributor has not moved (static timing correct). If there was a problem sort it and try starting again. Otherwise, then first I would check the Low Tension (LT) side of the ignition. Confirm that the correct voltage reaches the B/+ side of the coil and also the correct voltage leaves the coil to distributor at the CB/- terminal. If a problem then check wiring and coil for breakdown before trying new parts (might be faulty out of box). If there was a problem and car now starts great. If there was no problem and all was okay then move on to High Tension (HT) checks.
First take off dizzy cap keeping all leads attached. Then using multi meter check continuity from end of each lead to the respective post in the cap (I once had a lead break internally). If there was a problem and now sorted great. If there was no problem move on.
Using a spare sparkplug I would attach the plug to each lead in turn (place plug on block for earth) and operate starter checking for spark. Remember the king lead too. If you have an in-line spark tester use it instead a lot safer especially as you have electronic ignition. If there was a problem and swapping leads or cap has sorted it great. If no problem then out with all spark plugs and try a set that you definitely know works (check gaps) before replacing with new.
There are other checks such as engine earth, compression etc, to try hopefully this will get you going.
Mr Rosbif, you may have your own routine this is mine, but the main point is do not miss out any part of the check list (assuming it to be okay) you will be driven crazy.
I realise that it may be cold out there but just to say this has taken me over an hour to type (one finger) the checks would take not much more time.
good luck
aleksandar
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Rosbif
December 14, 2017, 12:55pm Report to Moderator

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Quoted from RobPearce


Technically, there probably still is a condenser (modern name "capacitor") inside the electronic box, doing a very similar job to the condenser on a points system, but protecting a transistor rather than a mechanical switch.


Pedant  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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