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Rosbif
December 14, 2017, 1:06pm Report to Moderator

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aleksander: Being left handed my order was very much like yours but starting with the sparks. I think the most likely is electrical somewhere then fuel then air, but you are right in so much as test every single step in turn. I do have working plugs and coil, these were replaced only recently just so I did have known working items in case of such a problem. I don't believe compression to be a cause, why would that suddenly be so as the car has been started recently but not driven, burnt out Accuspark, hum? keys aren't left in so not accidentally left with ignition on. Short on the ignition wiring? Interesting, add to list.

Yes when I have the chance a morning should be enough time to find the villain.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 1:18pm Report to Moderator

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At last the various factors, weather & time, arranged themselves so I could have another look at the problem.

Well: No spark at a plug grounded to engine block. No spark from HT lead exiting coil.

There is current to the coil & dizzy.

Checking +ve and -ve at coil gives a buzz when my basic meter is set on ohms (test).
I don't get a current if I connect the meter to the -ve dizzy terminal and ground.

When I put the meter on ohms across the dizzy I got:
Meter +ve to dizzy +ve = 1266
Meter -ve to dizzy +ve = 926

Can anybody interpret these for me into simple terms, my electrical understanding is a lot rusty, I was at school with Volta, Ampére & Sherlock (Ohms) and didn't pay much attention  

While having lunch a thought struck me, obvious really, is the dizzy turning? When I get the next chance, maybe Friday, I'll investigate further.

At least I an sure now it is electrical not fuel related, I'm bad with electricity and even worse with fuel (other than rum & whiskey)  

Thanks for all input so far and any to come.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 1:36pm Report to Moderator

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Forgot to say, if it helps the dizzy has Accuspark electronic not points.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 3:01pm Report to Moderator

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Had the chance to get at the car this afternoon, see elsewhere, and confirmed the dizzy does spin.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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aleksandar
December 20, 2017, 3:45pm Report to Moderator
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Mr Rosbif.
Firstly, have you confirmed static timing correct.
5 minute job.
Flat driveway or road with 5 foot front and rear space around car.
Ignition off, bonnet open, oil cap off,easier to observe valves 7+8, dizzy cap off (easier to observe rotor arm).
Put car in 4th, handbrake off and rotating front wheel you can observe valves, rotor arm and timing mark to confirm static timing and rotor arm moves as should.
When done, oil cap back on, dizzy cap back on and gearbox in neutral with handbrake on.
Then assuming every electrical connection correct.
Only then move to next test.
15 minute job.
Next, as you have electronic ignition and not contact breaker points...., be careful (rubber gloves).
Assuming you have a remote starter solenoid with remote starter button (otherwise you will need an assistant to operate starter key).
Assuming you have correct voltage supply to Bat/+ side of coil also between CB/- side of coil and dizzy.
If you do not us an inline spark tester, then disconnect the main HT (king) lead from the centre of the dizzy, and hold so metallic end is approx ¼ inch from block.
Ignition on, briefly operate starter button.
You should see sparking.
If none, and the lead is not internally broken and is definitely connected correctly to the coil then one of two things.
1:     the coil is knackered. Try test with known good coil.
2:     the electronic ignition is not triggering the open phase i.e. it is acting like non-opening points.
Remember most electronic ignition does not like voltage supply for longer than about ten seconds without engine running, so switch ignition key off between tests.
But let us hope you do have a spark, so move to next test.
Assuming you have confirmed all HT leads are connected correctly, including coil to dizzy.
Assuming the rotor arm is not internally/externally shorting out.
Again if you do not use an inline spark tester, disconnect one lead at spark plug end attach known working spark plug to HT lead place on block, or do as before and hold HT lead ¼ inch from block.
Then, with ignition on, briefly operate remote starter button.
There should be a lovely spark.
If there is try the same test with each lead.
If this test does not work swap the dizzy cap with one you changed at last service, if the HT leads are faulty swap.
You have tested your ignition, apart from the electronic module.
aleksandar
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Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 4:26pm Report to Moderator

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Hi aleksander, thanks for the advice.

Why would the static timing "go off" between the car running fine one day and a few days later not starting?

The 15 minute job all done as you describe, spark plug test as well. No sparks as said in earlier post.

I don't have a spare dizzy cap, the current one looks good inside and out.

I am beginning to wonder if the electronic ignition has given up the ghost. Maybe I should buy another unit, dizzy cap and a set of HT cables at the same time, none of which are prohibitively expensive. Is it too late to add them to my Xmas present list I wonder.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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aleksandar
December 20, 2017, 7:48pm Report to Moderator
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Mr Rosbif.
Apologies if I have not been clear.
My routine is based on that given to me by my motoring mentor...., that of process of elimination.
Why start at static timing?
1: you can confirm engine not seized (yes I know it turned over on key but stick with me)
2: confirms whether the dizzy clamp has come loose (working in engine bay, who knows)
3: you can see that the rotor is turning correctly and stopping in the correct area (see point No2)
4: you can see that points operating correctly (yes I know you have electronic, so do I)
5: with the dizzy cap off you can also physically check the dizzy earth strap (essential)
I then asked you to do a basic first check of the LT side i.e. power to coil from battery/ignition, and power dizzy to coil.
As you confirmed this to be so, this allows a move to check the HT side.
If you were on points (which you are not) I would have run through the LT checks using a test lamp in a process of elimination i.e. regulator to ignition, ignition feed, coil, points etc.
This is why I asked about the continuity of HT leads, dizzy cap terminals, rotor arm and spark plugs.
I once took weeks to trace a misfire to a HT lead with internal damage because I did not follow the step by step process.
Therefore if your LT circuit is sound and your HT circuit is sound I am afraid to say you need the items fitted in the dizzy checked.
aleksandar
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Rosbif
December 21, 2017, 11:33am Report to Moderator

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Thanks for the clarification on the static timing aleksander, now I see why.

I'll try and do that but I'm coming down to dizzy electronics as the N° 1 suspect. I shall continue, I won't be beaten, I shall leave no stone unturned (or car based item), I will probably throw a hissy fit and kick the tyres though at some point  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
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yorkshire_spam
December 21, 2017, 12:25pm Report to Moderator

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Can't remember 100% how the accuspark works, does it have a black plastic ring fitted to the dizzy shaft under the rotor arm?
If it does, with the rotor arm held in place push the ring up to meet the rotor arm.
On some of these electronic points replacements it's possible for the ring to be too far down the dizzy shaft which stops them working. (Mine is sat on top of an o-ring to ensure it's at the correct height)
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Rosbif
December 21, 2017, 2:24pm Report to Moderator

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Yorkshire_spam : No idea. I'll have to look next chance I get, thanks for the tip.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 39 - 39
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