Refused :: Triumph Torque

Moordale Motors

Welcome, Guest.
Please login or register.
Refused
Forum Login
Login Name: Create a new account
Password:     Forgot password

Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  Refused
Users Browsing Forum
No Members and 19 Guests

Refused Print
3 Pages 1 2 3 All Recommend Thread
Rosbif
December 12, 2017, 3:41pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
That is what the car did today, refused to start. It ran fine 7/10 days ago. Today I replaced the plugs and it refused to start after. OK you can get a bad one but 4? bought from a proper supplier. Refitted the old ones no go.
The battery spins the motor like a mad thing so not that.
Fuel? In this weather unlikely to be evaporation, but primed the pump anyway, no joy. Started to loosen the pump top and petrol seeped out so I guess fuel is getting that far.

So, electrical? refitted the coil I took out a few weeks ago, it was working at that time. No change.
Ran out of time so I will have to grumble to myself for the next 3 or 4 days .

I didn't really look to see it the plugs were wet when I took them out, I was so shocked that the old girl wasn't playing the game.

Question: Fuel pump, if petrol comes out as the top is loosened does this mean petrol is leaving the pump or just getting to it, or neither/both

I will check the pump exit for signs of petrol, a match and some old newspaper should be all I need
Then a step by step check of all electrical connections and "stuff". The car has Acuspark fitted just under 3 years ago, could this have failed due to cold weather, not been that cold, could be damp, could be "X". Find "X".

At least I don't need the car in a hurry, as Mrs Me pointed out.

Right diagnostic equipment: Large glass plus  Havana Club aged rum? 10 year old single malt? or Irish? Decisions, decisions.  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message
Hogie
December 12, 2017, 3:54pm Report to Moderator
Club Member
Posts: 1,374
Posts Per Day: 0.51
Hi
Look at all the electrics in the area that you worked in.  Something silly pulled out.
Did you have the dizzy cap off - rotor arm !!

Go for the Irish - you can then justifiably work yourself into a paddy and feel happy.

Roger


TR4A 1967 daily(ish) driver
TR41962  having surgery at present
Logged
Private Message Reply: 1 - 39
paulfosh
December 12, 2017, 4:37pm Report to Moderator

Posts: 64
Posts Per Day: 0.10
check the king lead is in place
Logged
Private Message Reply: 2 - 39
RobPearce
December 12, 2017, 5:25pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 1,781
Posts Per Day: 1.42
Fuel pump being full only means fuel's getting that far. It's possible the float needle valve is stuck.
The Accuspark may have failed but I'd not be as aggressive in that sugestion as some on here.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
Logged
Private Message Reply: 3 - 39
Rosbif
December 12, 2017, 5:31pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from Hogie
Hi
Look at all the electrics in the area that you worked in.  Something silly pulled out.
Did you have the dizzy cap off - rotor arm !!

Go for the Irish - you can then justifiably work yourself into a paddy and feel happy.

Roger


Didn't have the dizzy cap off so I agree something silly pulled out - I'll start with pulling out the cork on the Irish and see if that helps, well it will help me at least.



Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 4 - 39
Rosbif
December 12, 2017, 5:33pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from RobPearce
Fuel pump being full only means fuel's getting that far. It's possible the float needle valve is stuck.
The Accuspark may have failed but I'd not be as aggressive in that sugestion as some on here.


I'll hit the carb with the right size 'persuader', or did you mean pump? I'll hit them both to be sure   Then hit the bottle  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 5 - 39
Pete Arnold
December 12, 2017, 6:06pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 186
Posts Per Day: 0.06
Quoted from Rosbif
I will check the pump exit for signs of petrol, a match and some old newspaper should be all I need


Reminds me of a friend, sadly now deceased, who was a fitter/service engineer with British Gas who swore blind that he always used safety matches when checking for leaks!!  


Signal Red - 1967 MkI Vitesse Saloon - North Bucks
Logged
Private Message Reply: 6 - 39
poppyman
December 12, 2017, 6:09pm Report to Moderator
Club Member
Posts: 346
Posts Per Day: 0.77
Have you checked if it's "on strike" being in France
Just a thought
Cheers,
Tony.
Logged
Private Message Reply: 7 - 39
John Bonnett
December 12, 2017, 6:20pm Report to Moderator


Posts: 2,933
Posts Per Day: 1.15
I had exactly the same thing. It had been running fine and then refused to start. Traced to no sparks despite 12Volt at the coil . Called the AA. Chap did a couple of electrical tests, asked me to crank the engine which I did and it started straight away. And it has run perfectly ever since. Problem has to be either the coil or ignition module and I now have a spare one of each.


La Coupe Florio 2015
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-rtCbygnIM
GT6 to Spain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtFH-Q3n2Gg

Located Whiddon Down Devon
Logged
Private Message Reply: 8 - 39
Rosbif
December 12, 2017, 7:33pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from poppyman
Have you checked if it's "on strike" being in France
Just a thought
Cheers,
Tony.


Good point. I was actually working on it between 12.00h and 14.00h so that is most likely the reason. 😥


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 9 - 39
Paula
December 12, 2017, 9:56pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 484
Posts Per Day: 1.20
I'm a professional idiot, so i have an idiot suggestion.

Firing order?




Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
Logged
Site Private Message Reply: 10 - 39
Beans
December 12, 2017, 10:37pm Report to Moderator

Theo Boonen
Club Member
Posts: 6,471
Posts Per Day: 1.47
Check all suspect wiring with your trusty muliti meter and check that all spark plugs do spark ...
Wild guess, damaged spark plug wires  




1976 TR7 FHC (bought for its wheels in 2013, currently undergoing some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (a.k.a. Kermette, my first car bought in 1988 )
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined, a.k.a. 't Kreng, bought as a parts donor in 1994, the rest is history as they say)

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/
Logged
Site Private Message Reply: 11 - 39
Rosbif
December 12, 2017, 11:15pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from Paula
I'm a professional idiot, so i have an idiot suggestion.

Firing order?




Not tnat as there wasn't even a cough or sneeze and he leads are marked so as not to get them mixed.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 12 - 39
Rosbif
December 12, 2017, 11:25pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from Beans
Check all suspect wiring with your trusty muliti meter and check that all spark plugs do spark ...
Wild guess, damaged spark plug wires  


When I next get the time,maybe Friday, I am going to go step by step over all the ignition wiring and leads to check connections and confirm there is a spark from he coil ht lead. I suspect the fault is upstream from individual plugs and their leads as there was not a single cylinder giving any sign of trying to fire.
I probably dislodged something with my big mitts.  
I have (sort of) checked the ht lead connections,I could have caught a wire from the dizzy to coil 😚
Until then more rum and whisk(e)y  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 13 - 39
herald948
December 13, 2017, 1:54am Report to Moderator


Posts: 2,016
Posts Per Day: 0.47
Quoted from Paula
I'm a professional idiot....


Does that require special testing or certification in the UK? I'm asking, because here in the US it seems almost a birthright.

p.s. Paula, I don't believe you really are a professional idiot; certainly not given your choice of motorcar!  



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
http://triumph-herald.us
Logged
Site Private Message AIM Reply: 14 - 39
cliftyhanger
December 13, 2017, 7:13am Report to Moderator

Moderator
Posts: 11,062
Posts Per Day: 2.23
I have had it a couple of times on my Toledo.
It has always been damp leads, and these are newish OEM leads, not aftermarket brands. A waft over with a hot air gun for a couple of minutes and all is well.
"Luckily" it only happens when the car has been left for a few days or more, never just overnight.

Probably ought to get some silicone leads, so may buy some from "mr retro leads" chappie (fitchetts)


Clive Senior

Location-Brighton, East Sussex
Foxy is here, 1500od tax exempt Toledo. Now has the decent engine back in Slant 4 engine bolted in, sprint box and axle.Now has fresh MoT. Needs paint though.
Spitfire Zetec project is started work progressing slooooowly on the road!
Logged
Private Message Reply: 15 - 39
Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 9:17am Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Paula, maybe not a professional idiot, but how about "gifted amateur".


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 16 - 39
Paula
December 13, 2017, 12:42pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 484
Posts Per Day: 1.20
Quoted from herald948


Does that require special testing or certification in the UK? I'm asking, because here in the US it seems almost a birthright.

p.s. Paula, I don't believe you really are a professional idiot; certainly not given your choice of motorcar!  



It's awarded on merit. But you are continuingly assessed so it's important to do stupid things every now and then just in case someones watching.
Like when i called the garage out after they had balanced my carbs and i only made it half a mile down the road. Only to find out i'd run out of petrol.

Oh wait!
Have you run out of petrol?  


Vitesse 6 Saloon  "Feargal" (Sharkey)
Logged
Site Private Message Reply: 17 - 39
glang
December 13, 2017, 12:51pm Report to Moderator

Posts: 651
Posts Per Day: 0.63
Quoted from Paula
I'm a professional idiot, so i have an idiot suggestion.

Firing order?




hey Id say its more a case of grasshopper becoming the master
Logged
Private Message Reply: 18 - 39
Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 1:48pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from Paula


It's awarded on merit. But you are continuingly assessed so it's important to do stupid things every now and then just in case someones watching.
Like when i called the garage out after they had balanced my carbs and i only made it half a mile down the road. Only to find out i'd run out of petrol.

Oh wait!
Have you run out of petrol?  


Funny you should mention that . . . filled up a jerry can while out this afternoon. Tank is low, I did wonder so put the lever in the reserve position the other day it didn't start.  

It's the thought that counts. I suppose you thought I was that stupid - don't answer that please.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 19 - 39
daver clasper
December 13, 2017, 2:27pm Report to Moderator
Club Member
Posts: 455
Posts Per Day: 0.29
I know you hadn't had dizzy cap off, but the contact from top of cap to rotor arm
Logged
Private Message Reply: 20 - 39
Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 3:16pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from daver clasper
I know you hadn't had dizzy cap off, but the contact from top of cap to rotor arm


I'm going to look at that just in case I accidentally dislodged something when removing the plugs.

Every little helps, thanks.



Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 21 - 39
Pete Arnold
December 13, 2017, 6:07pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 186
Posts Per Day: 0.06
And unlike my last comment, here's a sensible suggestion.

Many years ago in a Ford Escort on the way home from a North Wales stage rally which had been cancelled due to the amount of snow, I got stuck in a drift on the A5.  Once I'd shovelled enough snow away I turned the key - silence!  

I had to wait about 3 hours for a snow plough to come along and the driver offered to give me a tow start.  Before tying on the tow rope I gave the key another turn and of course the car started perfectly!!!

To cut short a long story, several days later the fault proved to be an intermittent one in the condenser.  But it's so long ago that I can't remember how we proved the condenser was at fault.


Signal Red - 1967 MkI Vitesse Saloon - North Bucks
Logged
Private Message Reply: 22 - 39
Rosbif
December 13, 2017, 7:12pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Pete thanks for the "sensible" suggestion, your comment about the gas fitter & safety matches was funnier though.
The car has Acuspark so no condenser.

I'm having to be patient as I can't get on with it for a few days yet -  very frustrating as the response from everyone is great, as usual
To show my appreciation I eventually got round to joining the club today, been meaning to do so for ages but you know how it goes ...
At least my stock of rum, single malt and Irish should last until I can attack the problem.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 23 - 39
Beans
December 13, 2017, 7:31pm Report to Moderator

Theo Boonen
Club Member
Posts: 6,471
Posts Per Day: 1.47
Quoted from Rosbif
...  I eventually got round to joining the club today ...

That is a good starting pooint I also see you have an electronic ignition.
If all basic (wiring & connectors) checks give no result you could try to change back to points to rule out the ignition module ...




1976 TR7 FHC (bought for its wheels in 2013, currently undergoing some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (a.k.a. Kermette, my first car bought in 1988 )
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined, a.k.a. 't Kreng, bought as a parts donor in 1994, the rest is history as they say)

http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/
Logged
Site Private Message Reply: 24 - 39
Pete Arnold
December 13, 2017, 11:41pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 186
Posts Per Day: 0.06
Quoted from Rosbif

The car has Acuspark so no condenser.


Shows how much (= little) I know about electrics as mine has Lumenition and I'd never realised there was no need for a condenser!!!



Signal Red - 1967 MkI Vitesse Saloon - North Bucks
Logged
Private Message Reply: 25 - 39
rustbuckit2011
December 14, 2017, 3:01am Report to Moderator


Posts: 104
Posts Per Day: 0.05
If you have inadvertantly left the car with the key switch in Ign. You may very well have burnt out the accuspark (Ive had the same problem before)
Beans is right- swap in the old points and see if it kicks over


1960 Herald Coupe Replica - mazda, datsun, and all over the garage floor
1964 Herald 1200 coupe - standard.

https://www.facebook.com/rust.buckit.94
Logged
Private Message Reply: 26 - 39
RobPearce
December 14, 2017, 8:45am Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 1,781
Posts Per Day: 1.42
Quoted from Pete Arnold
Shows how much (= little) I know about electrics as mine has Lumenition and I'd never realised there was no need for a condenser!!!


Technically, there probably still is a condenser (modern name "capacitor") inside the electronic box, doing a very similar job to the condenser on a points system, but protecting a transistor rather than a mechanical switch.


Current fleet
1967 Vitesse 2L conv "Tessa"
1970 Spitfire Mk3 (project) "Toby"
1972 GT6 Mk3
Not enough time or space
Recently sold:
1972 2.5 PI estate "Harry" (gone to russell on here)
1973 Toledo 2-door "Spike" (gone to a club official)
Used to have:
1968 Vitesse 2L saloon
1980 Dolomite 1500
1977 Dolomite 1850
1980 Dolomite Sprint
1982 TR7 DHC Sprint
1975 2500S saloon
1971 Herald 13/60 Estate (with 1500 Spit engine)
1975 Stag
Logged
Private Message Reply: 27 - 39
aleksandar
December 14, 2017, 10:30am Report to Moderator
Guest User
Mr Rosbif.
Ignition operated, engine turns over as normal but does not ‘fire up’.
So this is what I check.
AIR
Carburettor dash pot off, piston out, confirm throttle and choke operation operates butterfly correctly. Any problems sort and then try starting again. If all is okay great, otherwise move on.
FUEL
After cranking without starting take off float bowl cover with fuel pipe still attached. Is there the correct amount of fuel in there? If no then place float bowl cover over jam jar so float hangs down and operate ignition. Is there a blockage? If yes sort and whilst at it blow out jet to bowl then try restarting. If there is no blockage, and fuel flows correctly, then move on.
SPARK
Confirm that the distributor has not moved (static timing correct). If there was a problem sort it and try starting again. Otherwise, then first I would check the Low Tension (LT) side of the ignition. Confirm that the correct voltage reaches the B/+ side of the coil and also the correct voltage leaves the coil to distributor at the CB/- terminal. If a problem then check wiring and coil for breakdown before trying new parts (might be faulty out of box). If there was a problem and car now starts great. If there was no problem and all was okay then move on to High Tension (HT) checks.
First take off dizzy cap keeping all leads attached. Then using multi meter check continuity from end of each lead to the respective post in the cap (I once had a lead break internally). If there was a problem and now sorted great. If there was no problem move on.
Using a spare sparkplug I would attach the plug to each lead in turn (place plug on block for earth) and operate starter checking for spark. Remember the king lead too. If you have an in-line spark tester use it instead a lot safer especially as you have electronic ignition. If there was a problem and swapping leads or cap has sorted it great. If no problem then out with all spark plugs and try a set that you definitely know works (check gaps) before replacing with new.
There are other checks such as engine earth, compression etc, to try hopefully this will get you going.
Mr Rosbif, you may have your own routine this is mine, but the main point is do not miss out any part of the check list (assuming it to be okay) you will be driven crazy.
I realise that it may be cold out there but just to say this has taken me over an hour to type (one finger) the checks would take not much more time.
good luck
aleksandar
Logged
E-mail Reply: 28 - 39
Rosbif
December 14, 2017, 12:55pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Quoted from RobPearce


Technically, there probably still is a condenser (modern name "capacitor") inside the electronic box, doing a very similar job to the condenser on a points system, but protecting a transistor rather than a mechanical switch.


Pedant  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 29 - 39
Rosbif
December 14, 2017, 1:06pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
aleksander: Being left handed my order was very much like yours but starting with the sparks. I think the most likely is electrical somewhere then fuel then air, but you are right in so much as test every single step in turn. I do have working plugs and coil, these were replaced only recently just so I did have known working items in case of such a problem. I don't believe compression to be a cause, why would that suddenly be so as the car has been started recently but not driven, burnt out Accuspark, hum? keys aren't left in so not accidentally left with ignition on. Short on the ignition wiring? Interesting, add to list.

Yes when I have the chance a morning should be enough time to find the villain.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 30 - 39
Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 1:18pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
At last the various factors, weather & time, arranged themselves so I could have another look at the problem.

Well: No spark at a plug grounded to engine block. No spark from HT lead exiting coil.

There is current to the coil & dizzy.

Checking +ve and -ve at coil gives a buzz when my basic meter is set on ohms (test).
I don't get a current if I connect the meter to the -ve dizzy terminal and ground.

When I put the meter on ohms across the dizzy I got:
Meter +ve to dizzy +ve = 1266
Meter -ve to dizzy +ve = 926

Can anybody interpret these for me into simple terms, my electrical understanding is a lot rusty, I was at school with Volta, Ampére & Sherlock (Ohms) and didn't pay much attention  

While having lunch a thought struck me, obvious really, is the dizzy turning? When I get the next chance, maybe Friday, I'll investigate further.

At least I an sure now it is electrical not fuel related, I'm bad with electricity and even worse with fuel (other than rum & whiskey)  

Thanks for all input so far and any to come.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 31 - 39
Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 1:36pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Forgot to say, if it helps the dizzy has Accuspark electronic not points.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 32 - 39
Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 3:01pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Had the chance to get at the car this afternoon, see elsewhere, and confirmed the dizzy does spin.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 33 - 39
aleksandar
December 20, 2017, 3:45pm Report to Moderator
Guest User
Mr Rosbif.
Firstly, have you confirmed static timing correct.
5 minute job.
Flat driveway or road with 5 foot front and rear space around car.
Ignition off, bonnet open, oil cap off,easier to observe valves 7+8, dizzy cap off (easier to observe rotor arm).
Put car in 4th, handbrake off and rotating front wheel you can observe valves, rotor arm and timing mark to confirm static timing and rotor arm moves as should.
When done, oil cap back on, dizzy cap back on and gearbox in neutral with handbrake on.
Then assuming every electrical connection correct.
Only then move to next test.
15 minute job.
Next, as you have electronic ignition and not contact breaker points...., be careful (rubber gloves).
Assuming you have a remote starter solenoid with remote starter button (otherwise you will need an assistant to operate starter key).
Assuming you have correct voltage supply to Bat/+ side of coil also between CB/- side of coil and dizzy.
If you do not us an inline spark tester, then disconnect the main HT (king) lead from the centre of the dizzy, and hold so metallic end is approx ¼ inch from block.
Ignition on, briefly operate starter button.
You should see sparking.
If none, and the lead is not internally broken and is definitely connected correctly to the coil then one of two things.
1:     the coil is knackered. Try test with known good coil.
2:     the electronic ignition is not triggering the open phase i.e. it is acting like non-opening points.
Remember most electronic ignition does not like voltage supply for longer than about ten seconds without engine running, so switch ignition key off between tests.
But let us hope you do have a spark, so move to next test.
Assuming you have confirmed all HT leads are connected correctly, including coil to dizzy.
Assuming the rotor arm is not internally/externally shorting out.
Again if you do not use an inline spark tester, disconnect one lead at spark plug end attach known working spark plug to HT lead place on block, or do as before and hold HT lead ¼ inch from block.
Then, with ignition on, briefly operate remote starter button.
There should be a lovely spark.
If there is try the same test with each lead.
If this test does not work swap the dizzy cap with one you changed at last service, if the HT leads are faulty swap.
You have tested your ignition, apart from the electronic module.
aleksandar
Logged
E-mail Reply: 34 - 39
Rosbif
December 20, 2017, 4:26pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Hi aleksander, thanks for the advice.

Why would the static timing "go off" between the car running fine one day and a few days later not starting?

The 15 minute job all done as you describe, spark plug test as well. No sparks as said in earlier post.

I don't have a spare dizzy cap, the current one looks good inside and out.

I am beginning to wonder if the electronic ignition has given up the ghost. Maybe I should buy another unit, dizzy cap and a set of HT cables at the same time, none of which are prohibitively expensive. Is it too late to add them to my Xmas present list I wonder.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 35 - 39
aleksandar
December 20, 2017, 7:48pm Report to Moderator
Guest User
Mr Rosbif.
Apologies if I have not been clear.
My routine is based on that given to me by my motoring mentor...., that of process of elimination.
Why start at static timing?
1: you can confirm engine not seized (yes I know it turned over on key but stick with me)
2: confirms whether the dizzy clamp has come loose (working in engine bay, who knows)
3: you can see that the rotor is turning correctly and stopping in the correct area (see point No2)
4: you can see that points operating correctly (yes I know you have electronic, so do I)
5: with the dizzy cap off you can also physically check the dizzy earth strap (essential)
I then asked you to do a basic first check of the LT side i.e. power to coil from battery/ignition, and power dizzy to coil.
As you confirmed this to be so, this allows a move to check the HT side.
If you were on points (which you are not) I would have run through the LT checks using a test lamp in a process of elimination i.e. regulator to ignition, ignition feed, coil, points etc.
This is why I asked about the continuity of HT leads, dizzy cap terminals, rotor arm and spark plugs.
I once took weeks to trace a misfire to a HT lead with internal damage because I did not follow the step by step process.
Therefore if your LT circuit is sound and your HT circuit is sound I am afraid to say you need the items fitted in the dizzy checked.
aleksandar
Logged
E-mail Reply: 36 - 39
Rosbif
December 21, 2017, 11:33am Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Thanks for the clarification on the static timing aleksander, now I see why.

I'll try and do that but I'm coming down to dizzy electronics as the N° 1 suspect. I shall continue, I won't be beaten, I shall leave no stone unturned (or car based item), I will probably throw a hissy fit and kick the tyres though at some point  


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 37 - 39
yorkshire_spam
December 21, 2017, 12:25pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 1,717
Posts Per Day: 0.87
Can't remember 100% how the accuspark works, does it have a black plastic ring fitted to the dizzy shaft under the rotor arm?
If it does, with the rotor arm held in place push the ring up to meet the rotor arm.
On some of these electronic points replacements it's possible for the ring to be too far down the dizzy shaft which stops them working. (Mine is sat on top of an o-ring to ensure it's at the correct height)
Logged
Private Message Reply: 38 - 39
Rosbif
December 21, 2017, 2:24pm Report to Moderator

Club Member
Posts: 400
Posts Per Day: 0.36
Yorkshire_spam : No idea. I'll have to look next chance I get, thanks for the tip.


Ruby : 1968 13/60 convertible
"I'm not rich enough to buy cheap"

"If it isn't broken don't fix it" - where's the fun in that?
Logged
Private Message Reply: 39 - 39
3 Pages 1 2 3 All Recommend Thread
Print

Triumph Torque    Cars    Herald/Vitesse  ›  Refused

Thread Rating
There is currently no rating for this thread
 


Powered by E-Blah Forum Software 10.3.5 © 2001-2008

Latest Blogs-
Steve Weblin

20th January 2018 09:49am gmt
Reads of Cheadle - Triumph Car Dealer 56
Theo Boonen

19th January 2018 7:13pm gmt
FHC resto nr. 61; Various small jobs
more blogs...
Next Group Meetings-
Worcestershire Wednesday 24th January 20:00
Nottingham Monday 29th January 19:00
Essex Tuesday 30th January 20:00
more local groups...
Upcoming Events-
CMC January Jaunt 12 Car Rally
26th January 2018
more events...
Wanted-
Dolomite Sprint Wanted. Must be manual OD, tax exempt. Looking for a tidy, usable car. Improvers considered, but not looking for a restoration project. Cash waiting, will travel. Contact Ade at ; bishop.ade@sky.c om

Herald Britax Weathershield Sun Roof, complete please. Bob Angell robertvangell1@ btinternet.com King’s Lynn Norfolk

Original Vitesse 2L Brake master cylinder, suitable for rebuild to convert my Herald.Pm Steve P on the forum or e mail prismsecsys@ btinternet.com

more adverts...
CLUB TRIUMPH the Club for all Triumphs
© Club Triumph Ltd MCMXCVI - MMXV