4 weeks on…
A little tweak….
Keeping calm, and carrying on…
Going onto the next bit…!
Trip 2, etc!
1st trip out with the locals…
Very close now…!
After another evening out in the car, enjoying the fruits of many endeavours(!), I opened the bonnet to check all was OK only to find a little smoke haze coming off the exhaust manifolding.
Following it through under the car, I found both the inner front plate securing screws, the ones that go into the aluminium bearing cover plate, loose. One was held in with a bit of Sika, the other, with slightly less badly worn threads, unable to tighten without further stripping, which I promptly did….
Into the garage and the dismantling began. Draining of the coolant and removal of the radiator. Fan belt removed after loosening the alternator and thus access to the fan bolts was made easy. This was removed along with the damper bolt that took a couple of shots with a rattle gun and the pulley was free. With the damper removed, it showed that the new double lipseal on the timing cover was dry and access to the holes for repair was easy. I checked the holes were still ‘blind’ with a toothpick and will use a couple of new 5/16 screws along with some Loctite 577 to make sure there’s a good seal.
I ordered a 5/16 UNF Helicoil repair kit and a 90-degree drill off Amazon – there’s not enough room to drill end on with my standard drill to allow the new thread for the Helicoil to be fitted.
They consequently arrived from Amazon and I set to on the job. The kit worked well – drill out, tap with a bottoming tap then screwing in the Helicoil after a dab of Loctite red threadlock. The tang on the coil snapped off when it reached the bottom of the thread – no need to punch it off. The new stainless screws should arrive this week and it should be job done.
I have a viscous fan conversion kit from Chris Witor to fit on the reassembly so, I separated the fan mount from the damper using a punch and hammer and swapped it with the NOS adaptor from Chris. I locked the crank with the car in 1st gear, handbrake on and torqued up the centre bolt to 90 ft/lb. Radiator went in next, lowered onto a trolley jack set to the right height and with an old T-shirt between the rad and the fan to allow the bolts to be fitted without having to try and hold it up at the same time… I’ll be interested to see how the visco fan copes with the traffic and heat down here at the moment – it’s 30+C for the foreseeable and the tourists have arrived! It seems quite ‘stiff’ at the moment, not really going to freewheel much that I can see unless the rpm gets up there and the load comes on the fan blades.
With the new silicone hoses connected, I topped up theÂ radiator with the previous charge of Evans Waterless Coolant and that was that. A quick run up at idle to ensure all was bled through the heater etc and set to go.
I was looking around for something else to fix and eyes turned to the windscreen washer bottle and pump… It’s been pretty poor since I had the car – not sure if it’s supposed to be any better or not however, I thought I’d overhaul the pump.
Removing the pumpÂ motor from the bottle cover and opening up the electrical box showed a bit of gunk around the rotor and some build upÂ on the commutator. I cleaned all the bits up, found some 50 year oldÂ graphite grease squirted into the upperÂ rotor bearing non too accurately and a little corrosion on the field magnet plates.
A good clean up with electrical solvent, a wire brush and a pick brought the parts back up to good condition and I re-lubed the rotor shaft bearings with Molykote and reassembled the motor. I also removed and cleaned the gauze from the water suction into the pump and checked all the pipes were clear. Reassembly and back on the car, I have a faster pump and a little better flow. I think removal of the jets and a wash in the ultrasonic bath will be the final job to get best possible operation now….
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 19th June 2017 11:48am gmt
4 weeks on…
A business trip to Singapore, extended, and a week away in Italy auditing means it’s been about 4 weeks since I was last on the road in the PI.
In the meantime however, I ordered up a new cigar lighter complete and the anti-rattle spring and plunger for the gear lever.
I swapped out the cigar lighter although it did require a little filing out of the hole in the console panel to let the illuminated section fit in place. I also needed to exchange the +ve wire from the oldÂ fitting to have the same sized bullet connector to fit back in the harnessÂ and, change the supplied new earthÂ connectorÂ from a ring to a spade fitting.Â All seems good there now and I can use the sat-nav if required on days out with the local club or, charge the phone…
The gear lever anti-rattle assembly was a little more involved than thought – the hole in the lowerÂ end of the lever seems to have deformed slightly with useÂ and needed a Dremel to bring it back to the right size again. I tried a drill bit the material was VERY hard! Once the plunger was a sliding good fit, it was just a case of pushing the lever back into the selector slot in the neutral position after covering allÂ with some Molyslip then, replacing the spring, sliding plate and locating screws… It was a bit of a faff but not too bad.
The gear lever didn’t really rattle or buzz prior to the job but it’s just something I knew was missing and should be there…
Once completed, a short run out was obviously required – full enrichment and it started first flick of the key; after 4 weeks, quite impressed! Long may it continue….
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 28th May 2017 2:36pm gmt
A little tweak….
With the big bits out of the way now and the car operational, I decided to follow up a few bits and pieces.
With the engine feeling a bit ‘flat’ at the top end, I checked out the internet and had words with Malcolm at Prestige Injection and decided to increase the maximum fuel stop screw 1/8 of a turn.
Initially however, I gave the rocker clearances a check – there were a couple a little tight – and did a set of dryÂ compressions with the engine hot and throttle wide open.
1/ 175psi, 2/ 178psi, 3/ 174psi, 4/172psi, 5/ 171psi and 6/ 172psi – not too bad, a 174 average. I think next time, I’ll do a dry and wet test to see how the bores are and go for a max pressure check. A quick vacuum check at idle showed just under 9″.
Next, the adjustment of the max fuel screw. It’s a bit of a pain on this LHD model – it might be a bit easier with a UK car perhaps, but not much I fear… Access is pretty dire, even with a pit it’s not easy. I decided to add a nut to the end of the adjustment screw after trying all sorts to turn it with some accuracy. The lock nut is 5/16″ whilst the end is ground down to just over 1mm thick.
Using a 10mm nut, I filled the centre with some plastic steel and placed it over the end of the stud and waited till it went off.
With the modified end, the adjustment proved ‘relatively’ easy and it was time for a quick run out.
The car ran the same through the low-mid range and when it came to the motorway slip-road, flat in 3rd showed a good improvement and no smoke. I might try another small adjustment but for the moment, it’s running well.
Time to enjoy! After cleaning the block off a bit but there’s a leak from the headgasket at the n/s…. In the words of Tom Jones, “It’s not unusual” seemingly.
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 02nd May 2017 07:41am gmt
Keeping calm, and carrying on…
So, with a cleaned up clutch master cylinder and the new slave / flexible pipe fitted, I put a little brake fluid in the reservoir and left it to fill the master cylinder for about 20 mins. Mug of tea done, I noticed the level had dropped however, it was leaking from the bottom of the reservoir rather than finding its way into the cylinder….!
On loosening up the clips and removing the reservoir, it was obvious that the stub pipe fitting in the bottom had come away so a soldering job was required. I once again, cleaned the reservoir and the stub pipe in the ultrasound bath and using some liquid flux, proceeded to heat up the container with a blowlamp and soldered up the connection again. Back on the car, all appears good with the reservoir underside staying dry overnight.
In the meantime, I checked the reverse lamp switch operation – one blown lamp and that was changed but circuit working correctly. I also checked the non-working cigarette lighter – power found to the socket but not operating when I tried the sat-nav… More playing required there – a new lighter fitting perhaps?
Next, the angle drive for the speedo cable. It was loose and leaking a little oil so I removed it again and perhaps I lost the spacer washer when switching the o/d over to the new box however, I put a 1mm thick Dowty seal in there that seems to have the correct dimension to allow the angle drive to tighten up and perhaps be a good seal too – time will tell….
Next job, the exhaust manifold. I noticed on removing it from the car that there was some miss-match with the porting. The gasket is almost a perfect fit around the head ports however, as can be seen in the photo, the manifold needed a bit of ‘massage’ to match more correctly the head. with a file and a Dremel, I managed to get a pretty good match – not sure if the extra flow will be noticeable in running but at least it’s more correct now.
Finally, clutch bleeding time. With Mrs Lewis’s petite size 38 at the ready, we set to. All the air seems to have bled out of the cylinder – the pipe ran clear – however, on pressing the piston back into the cylinder, there was still air in the system. With more bleeding, I finally reached a truly massive 6mm travel on the piston – enough to move the arm but not nearly enough. I think I’ll bleed again with the cylinder hanging vertically to let the air rise and make it easier to clear. I’d like to have best possible chance at getting it correct before starting up. The pedal feels lighter than previous – perhaps that’s a sign of more air in the system as well…. From another forum, it looks like 16mm is the required travel on the piston to operate correctly so there’s a fair way to go….!
The modified fuel pipe is ready to go onto the metering unit now and with the sensor in place, I’ll have a read-out of the pressure on the dash. That went together nicely and I just need to drill a chassis member now to put a securing clip around it to keep it tight.
Last push today – an outing along the coast into Wine-Country beckons tomorrow. Final checks and test with fuel pump on for leaks – all tight, no leaks.
I bled out the clutch again, hanging the slave cylinder vertically and that did the job. A good travel was found with a firm pedal.
The new centre section of the exhaust arrived on Friday so that went in however, not without a little massage… I had to cut approx 30mm off the length of the extractor outlet pipe to allow the rest of the system to fit together. I used some red RTV in the joints to seal them up.
A 90% reassembly of the interior next with just the gearlever surround panel left off in case I had to drop the box again…! It’s quite a delicate panel so better safe than sorry…
The engine ran almost first flick of the key after running the fuel pump for about 10 secs first. All injectors fired up and there was a smooth uptake on the clutch in 1st and reverse at least. And, it was quiet at idle with no bearing noise!
I checked the air flow through each throttle body and found they needed adjusting to balance them up after being removed and realigned best poss using a view through the open butterfly against the head port. Easy done with the linkage fitted last year.
After a clean up, I set out on a quick test drive around the valley Saturday evening and managed to get about 500m before losing drive…
With oil under the car, it seems there was a problem with the slave cylinder. A tow back with the Mrs at the wheel of the old diesel estate and I left the car till the next morning and cancelled the trip to the vineyard. At 11 p.m., I’d had enough for the day! Beer called; time for a green tea….
Under the car again and it became obvious that the slave cylinder was the culprit:
Somewhat annoying, over-extension in the cylinder had jammed the clutch disengaged so no drive. One securing bolt removed in this photo – not one missing…!!
I released the bracket after removing the cylinder and checked the cylinder bore / seal. All OK fortunately and with the cylinder mounted the other side of the bracket, I then had to bleed the system again.
With the Mrs away for a few days, I tried just leaving the cylinder hanging vertically and havingÂ a mug of tea. This actually seemed to do the trick with air bleeding out of the nipple a few times before just oil appeared and with the piston pushed fully in and a cable tie around the end of the cylinder to catch the piston, I proceeded to pump the pedal to get a good position for the actuator rod length before re-securing.
Full operation of the clutch resumed, piston safely half-way down the cylinder and a test drive on the cards. I raised the back of the car on axle stands just to check all was well with the clutch before heading out and that was it – all good.
Finally, a couple of hours later, back home, happy and satisfied the car will be set for a summer season with the rest of the group here. Fuel pressure ranged from 101-104 psi during the trip out, water temp remained at halfway and oil pressure was between 80psi and 30 when on the motorway / idle in town.
I did hear, with the back end raised, signsÂ of a noisy offside rear hub bearing – next project I guess, after a break and bit of use!
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 25th April 2017 09:51am gmt
19th March 2017
So, starting to make moves in a positive direction, and not for the first time..!
I cleaned up the mating surface of the flywheel – there was a deposit of some sort, perhaps a Loctite product or similar, on parts of the recess and on the end of the crank. I also found a good use for my diesel glow-plug cleaners in wire-brushing out the flywheel retaining screw holes. Again, there was some deposit of Loctite in there that needed to be removed so as to set an accurate torque with the new ARP screws.
I also set to with the recently delivered S50 Dynax corrosion prevention wax. I went through a couple of litres of it in the chassis crossmembers and sills that had been previous prepared by Chris by drilling under the kickplates. I also drilled a 6mm hole in each rear suspension mounting member and repeated the spraying plenty in each side. These will be blanked before hitting the road with a rubber bung or a threaded screw and washer.
I also removed the old speedo cable and replaced it with the new item just received. Interestingly, the new one seems far lighter than the older (original) – hopefully, it’ll be equally as durable!
The gearbox is ready to mount now, I’m just waiting for the new flywheel bolts to arrive and that’ll be the next challenge…
With the arrival of the new set screws for the flywheel, reassembly has begun – good weather and the weekend was a factor, obviously…
I mounted the flywheel after fitting the new spigot bearing and torqued up the bolts to 75 lb/ft after a few drops of oil on the threads and a smear of Molykote on the underside of the head where it’s in contact with the flywheel surface. I locked the flywheel with a prybar on the ring gear, jammed against the chassis.
Following that, the new clutch cover and the friction plate were centered with a plastic tool from Amazon – why make life difficult?!? This worked well and cost very little. The new cover plate need filing a little in way of the holes for the flywheel pins, which was a bit of a surprise but it’s a good snug fit now and the screws all torqued up nicely.
I removed the clutch master cylinder and stripped it down for cleaning and overhaul. It was pretty mucky inside and the reservoir needed some TLC.
The pipe clips on the reservoir pipe needed to be cut off with a Dremel and then the reservoir itself, the cylinder and piston went into the ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour with some degreaser added. All parts came up well and using my brass and nylon diesel glowplug cleaning brushes, the bore of the cylinder cleaned up well and showed no scratches, more a little polished in partsÂ than anything else. I buffed up the exterior of the reservoir with a drill-mounted flapper wheel and a polishing mop afterwards. It’s not perfect but looks a lot better than previously where rust had marked it under the clamp and the galvanising was very poorly finished.
With new seals fitted, the piston was insertedÂ with a little brake fluid to lubricate the seals and a spot of synthetic grease added to the socket of the ball end of the pushrod. I remounted the reservoir with a new length of rubber pipe, clips and a new mounting bracket to finish off. I left it open overnight to ensure the reservoir was fully dry before filling with oil.
Back under the car, I fitted theÂ new nylon flexible section of pipe and attached the new slave cylinder loosely, ready to mount when the gearbox goes in.
I found a few more spots where I could get some Dynax into sections that I had missed previously – it’s deffo my favourite new protection wax; easy to apply and when dry, isn’t messy. As we have so little rain here and anyway, the car is mainly for sunny days,Â hopefully, it’ll last a good while without needing to be re-applied too regularly.
With a smear of synthetic grease on the splines of the input shaft, it was time to mount the gearbox. I removed the centre section of the exhaust beforehand to make access easier and found a production date of 1978 on the silencer..! There’s some surface rust on the pipe but the boxes seem in good condition so I’ll keep that for spares. I replaced the subframe exhaust mounting with a new stainless item with Superflex bushes from Chris after straightening the two mounting slots and the rear axle section now sits perfectly in the centre of the hole ready for the new semi-sports centre section from Chris.
The gearbox slid right in first time , which was nice, and then there’s the enviable task of doing up all the bellhousing screws…. I connected up the reverse light switch and power to the overdrive solenoid along with the relay actuator through the 3/4 gearlever plane switch. The 2nd gear inhibitor switch was left out of the circuit at Mike Papworth’s suggestion. After which, I changed the gearbox mounting with a new item from Chris as the original was beginning to separate and fitted new Superflex subframe mounting bushes as the others were deformed beyond further use. New nuts for the mountings with Mrs Lewis’s hoof on top of the saddle brackets when I was pushing up from under with the subframeÂ sorted that and new bolts for the propshaft flange finished that off too – in all, a satisfying day! I noticed a very slight amount of play in the forward U/J so will order up a couple of kits to replace those at some point.
Luckily, the Mrs arrived with a mug of Yorkshire Gold to keep things on track and I was allowed out shortly after…
Next week, I should receive the modifiedÂ metering unitÂ fuel inlet pipe from Malcolm at Prestige with the 1/8″ BSP t-piece for the pressure sensor to allow permanent readout on the dash. That fitted, along with the new centre-section exhaust, the manifold and throttle bodies and a few other bits and pieces should mean back on the road next weekend. All being well!
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 10th April 2017 3:36pm gmt
So, with some time to kill whilst the fuel pipe is being modified to accept the 1/8″ BSP sensor, I decided to get the car over the pit and move on with the gearbox removal / exchange.
This being the first time I’d properly looked in the pit in the 5 years we’ve been here, it was a bit of a shock… there was a total of 750kg of old soil, rotted wood pallets, remains of an old bonfire or two and some discarded oil seals and bearings in the bottom that had to be cleared. 750kg as that’s what the weighbridge at the tip said when it was all dumped…!
The whole operation was carefully managed by our faithful assistants of course… In the end, I cleared out the bottom with a couple of kilos of caustic soda and we now have a functioning, clean pit that even has a proper sealed floor.
Realising that the extractor manifold downpipe / first section of horizontal exhaust would need to be removed, I started above ground and dropped off the inlet manifolds and released the exhaust manifold from the studs. Fortunately, the sliding fitting into the main exhaust section came free easily and the manifold lifted away without problem.
You can see where the head ports are miss-aligned with the exhaust path by the soot depositsÂ so I think a bit of Dremel work before reassembly might be on the cards to smooth things out a bit.
In the car, the gear lever surround was lifted away and the centre console removed to allow access to the gear lever and tunnel closing panel. The two screws were slackened back and the lever removed to be cleaned up. All good so far…
Next, the propshaft was marked up with a centre punch against the overdrive output so it could go back in the same orientation and then the flange split away. The main exhaust mounts were removed in the centre section and the transmission jack put in place. Oil was drained from the box and the filter removed from the overdrive and cleaned up. there was a bit of sludge in the mesh and a few deposits on the magnetic washers but nothing major so it was replaced and stripping continued.
The weight was taken up on the transmission jack and the rear crossmember support nuts were removed.
This allowed access to the difficult to get to bolts / studs on top of the box at the engine end and, eased access to disconnect the inhibiter switch connections. All good so far and with the starter removed and lowered onto the jack, I removed all the fasteners between the engine and box and separated the two away with the aid of a lever. The clutch slave cylinder was left hanging and will be replaced along with the nylon pipe and pipe between the clutch master cylinder and the reservoir. The engine was supported under the sump with a trolley jack and a block of wood to spread the weight a bit.
The gearbox was dropped away which left access to the clutch cover plate, which was in pretty good condition and the friction plate was perhaps half worn or less. I guess these will clean up and go back in the spares cupboard as “used but good”…
As can be seen, there’s some oil on the engine back plate though the flywheel and clutch were dry.
I removed the flywheel with a impact gun and pulled it proved to be sound with no wear on the dowel or elongation of the holes; good news! The spigot bush was barely worn but again, a new one will be fitted on reassembly. I have ordered some new ARB screws for the flywheel to give it the best chance of staying in one place… Must check the new torque figure for them!
I removed the engine back plate to source the oil leak and it seems it’s coming from the top screw of the seal carrier. On removing this, I found a spring washer rather than a copper sealing washer but also, a little damage to the surface of the carrier that I draw-filed away, making a flat surface for a new copper washer. I used some Loctite 577 on the threads and around the washer then torqued up the screw – hopefully, that’s the end of it now..! There was a smear of oil coming from the core plug at the back of the cam however, barely enough to register a run and certainly not worth smashing it out to replace and reseal it…!
I noticed that the speedo cable sheath was damaged when the gearbox was out – Chris Witor has a LHD one in stock so will put that on the order list too.
Under the floor is as clean as the rest of the car – there’s no rust anywhere and, whilst the box is out, I’ll give all the box sections a good filling with Dynax S50 and the area above the gearbox, plenty of Waxoyl on all surfaces.
With the aid of a mate, I split the gearbox from the overdrive and swapped it over to the new box from Mike Papworth. At Mike’s suggestion, the 2nd gear switch will be left off the new box and the wiring modified to suit. I ordered some 80W gear oil on line, also a suggestion from Mike, as it seemsÂ just about impossible to find here in the stores.
Chris’s box of parts arrived yesterday so the weekend looks like being a little busy, starting with the Waxoyl and Dynax…
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 17th March 2017 10:16pm gmt
Going onto the next bit…!
So, after a few relatively quiet weeks, and a few trips out with the local unofficial club, it was time to get a few things underway.
I ordered, and received promptly from Demon Tweeks, aÂ Stack Classic 80mm rev-counter and dash-top podÂ along withÂ aÂ 52mm SPA combined fuel / oil pressureÂ gauge.
A bit testing to fit but the tacho went on top of the dash above the ashtray and the combined gauge, under the rheostat / interior lamp switches.
For the fuel pressure sensor, I’m going to get a work contact toÂ crimp a 1/8BSP female fitting into the flexi line before the MU inlet – I tried making up a connection with assistance of the local hydraulics shop but space was becoming a problem using a T and adapters. This way, I get to keep the correct pipe fittings and, as the flexi is pretty new, it should be a good option for some years.
I had to make another penetration through the firewall for the sensor cables of the SPA gauge – it comes with excellent quality industrial-style sensors and end fittings and trying to find some grommets here proved a little difficult. In the end, I decided to use some epoxy putty which has the advantage of being resistant to heat, chemicals and fuel and, should keep noise transfer to a minimum.
At the same time, I decided to have a go at overhauling the annoyingly intermittent instrument lamp rheostat. This proved easier than I thought after removing – simply opening the tags on the base allowed the top to come away and revealed a corroded central sliding contact and some discolouration of the main contact of the wound wire section which was otherwise, in excellent condition. This cleaned up easily enough with a splash of contact cleaner, a brass wire brush and, with a smear of Waxoyl before reassembly, a quick check with a Fluke showed the resistance was at least, variable again and it seems to work well when reconnected.
A road test showed the oil pressure gauge to be sampling too frequently (0.2 secs) which was giving over-active readings. When I reprogrammed it to a 2-second sample time, idle speed after a 10 miles run on the motorway gave 32psi and at 3000 rpm, pressure was up to 70psi which is OK I think.
Back in November, I decided to order a new gearbox from Mike Papworth as the one fitted was showing the usual problem signs; noisy at idle with clutch engaged, dodgy 2nd gear synchromesh and only quiet cruising in topÂ – a ‘better than new’ version, one of his ‘specials’, based on a Stag casing with an uprated layshaft including more durable bearing pack and a higher first-gear from the Stag/late TR6, a remade main shaft and top-quality RHP bearings / steel bushes. That’s going to be heading to France early January for a fitting sometime in Jan/Feb, work allowing…! I’m just waiting for a mate to arrive to do some work on the coast here who is also familiar with Triumph gearbox replacement… I just need to keep some ‘Green Tea’ (Heineken) in the fridge to keep him smiling…
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 31st December 2016 12:45am gmt
Trip 2, etc!
So, still trying to get to the bottom of the vibration from the front wheels / suspension I eventually bit the bullet, ordering a couple of new Bridgestone Turanza 205/60 15 tyres from a local supplier and they came to the house Saturday morning to fit them (at 07.15…!).
On the first drive out, there was an immediate difference, even at low speed around the valley – no slight ‘squirming’ of the steering wheel and then at speed on the motorway, vibration-free finally!
Quite a relief and now, I’ll get the rear ones replaced too – what a palava; you expect new tyres to be made to standard and waste a lot of time looking elsewhere to no avail. The bad tyres were Avon ZV5 – never again, which is a shame as I had no problem with Avon Turbospeeds in the 90’s on my XJ12s… Try to buy British eh??
Just as well really as yesterday, the Wife and I headed out on another trip with the local group into Italy this time, starting in Menton and heading up into the Italian hills for some lunch. Excellent and great value for money though galoshes were required – it rained like the tropics whilst we were in the restaurant…
No leaks seemingly into the car, which was nice, following an inspection on the return home – a great relief!
Topping up with fuel showed 24mpg for the run out, which wasn’t bad considering the roads we were on I guess. The car went well and sounded great through the narrow valleys and small villages…
I ordered an overhauled gearbox / clutch from Mike Papworth for delivery in the New Year – next project already planned.. The Mrs will love it! Â Also, I ordered up a duel ‘oil pressure / fuel pressure’ gauge to help keep an eye on things. Something else to do whilst the rain pours down…
Had the second pair of Bridgestone tyres fitted this morning outside at the house again – at 0715, +2C but no rain! – will test the car at the weekend to see if we’re finally fully vibe-free.
Very happy as getting the car out, it started first time after a week of non-use in a non-heated garage… Lucas injection? Excellent stuff….!!
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 21st November 2016 11:19am gmt
1st trip out with the locals…
The wife and I went to a conference in Italy a couple of weeks ago in Alassio – great little place and a top networking event. One of the people we met mentioned he had a ’66 Mustang and was in a very unofficial, casual classic car club. Obviously, I latched onto this as the 2.5 was ready for a proper trip out finally and, arrangements were made to meet up last Saturday morning in the bay of Villefrance, between Nice and Monaco.
We arrived with the said Mustang close behind and settled into a couple of coffees and pain aux raisins… When we were all gathered, there followed a great trip up into the hills behind Monaco and Nice with the Triumph going very well and sounding great amongst the others in the fleet. There was, additional to the Mustang, a very clean E-Type, imported from Texas, a boat-tail Alfa Spyder, a Corvette, and a Harley….
Great views from the top of the hills – out into Villefrance bay, a cruise ship the only thing spoiling the view perhaps but then again, showing just how big these vessels are now.
There was a good lunch in Beaulieu and some new contacts made – including a guy who works in the office next to mine in Antibes!
The Triumph acquitted itself admirably and on returning home, there was only a weep of oil noted from the distributer drive shaft – past the new o-ring… annoying! The recon clock is running pretty much to time and all seems worth the effort now!
Next month there’s another trip out with the group; hopefully, I’ll be able to get to that one, work allowing, and that’s it for the year.
I’d better start making a list of jobs for 2017 now…
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 01st November 2016 09:58am gmt
Very close now…!
Had a warm feeling this morning – my overhauled distributer arrived back at the office, overhauled and retimed, ready to R&R…
I think tonight is going to be the night for a quiet cruise – let’s see what a difference the extra advance makes, looking forward to it!
There’s now about 7.5 degrees dynamic advance from 2800rpm, total 18.5, but as I’m not sure what the original setting was for the PI engine, I can’t comment – actions speak louder than words..!
Whilst in the boot, I checked the main flexible fuel pipe from the reducing valve to the main fuel pipe running forward. It was pretty hard and, as the only piece not replaced so far, decided to get a new one from Chris Witor. Bending it a little further than initially, showed that the outer sheath was completely degenerated although the inner tube was not compromised as far as I could tell.
Back into the garage, all good – very happy with the results so far. One problem remains however, some vibration through the steering wheel… I took the front wheels to a local tyre shop and they found one front one in tolerance of balance, the other was well off… A rebalance required 150g+ to bring it back under control, which is not good.
Tried again and still, there was a vibration – took the offending wheel to a known garage – the local Merc independant – who has some top-line equipment. He confirmed the problem and even switching the tyre around the rime somewhat, it was still bad result. He suggested that the Avon tyres were not the best, in his experience.
Another test drive revealed there was still some vibration around 70mph but less. I swapped front to back and there was again some vibration through the steering wheel however, at 60mph now and less than previous… I think it’s going to need an eventual new set of tyres to sort that out properly – Continental or Michelin perhaps.
In the meantime, I received some new plugs – Bosch Super 4 (WR78) – and a new set of ignition leads from Magnecor. Another final road test this week will hopefully show some final improvements before the next round of project jobs progress.
Another oil leak became obvious when I returned home after the last trip out – turns out the original torque setting for the studs on the timing cover allowed them to come loose a little… I gave them an extra nip up and all is dry now after the last run out.
I also received the new silicone gasket for the alloy rocker cover – that’s a good job for a wet afternoon, lining it up and bonding it to the cover with RTV red, hopefully more successfully than last time… Currently, the old cover is dry and seems to be good after the adjustments with pliers and feelers – I might leave it on for a while till the tappets need doing again.
posted by paul6425 https://triumph25pi.wordpress.com 03rd October 2016 12:27am gmt
|Views expressed here are personal are not necessarily endorsed by Club Triumph|
viewed 14789 times More from Paul Lewis