Club Triumph

Been sorting out some things on the Dolly to use it over the winter, including fixing a blowing exhaust manifold gasket.
Having fixed that I can hear a rattling noise from the front of engine, especially on tick over. Sounds like a bearing that isn't round any more or similar. Doesn't seem to be coming from the top, I've tried running with the cam cover off and it isn't coming from there. So I'm thinking timing chain or tensioner, or water pump, or something to do with the jack shaft.
I've just changed the oil and filter, so I cut open the old filter and there weren't any metal fragments in it, which is good, and the engine is still running fine. I'm not very familiar with slant engines so I  wonder if there are any experts out there that can advise.

8)

Thanks,

Keith

They can rattle a bit for a long time without problems.

Then again, timing chain and tensioner - could be :-/

Hope it's not the jackshaft but I wouldn't have thought so.

Water pump sounds possible too - what about the viscous coupling? You could take it off and ruin the car for a few minutes and see if the noise is still there.

Martin, the 1850 doesn't have a viscous fan. It was only the Sprints that had them. From Keith's description it sounds like the timing chain or the tensioner. It's a fairly easy job to do and a new timing chain and tensioner isn't gonna break the bank.

Thanks for your replies, sounds like I need to drain and remove the rad, then take the timing cover off to see what's occurring in there.

Keith

Timing chain indeed is the most likely cause.
With the engine turned of the chain should be fairly tight on the cam sprocket.
If you can move the chain away from the sprocket easily,
it is time to check the chain and/or the tensioner.

Just been out there and got the rad out, bonnet off and most other bits, thwarted by the crankshaft pulley nut though. The biggest socket I've got is 1 7/16", but it looks like this needs a 1 1/2" socket. It could be interesting trying to undo it as it's an auto box, so no good just putting it in gear!
Definately looks like there is no tension in the chain at the moment, if you turn the crankshaft back and forth there is a lot of backlash before the cam moves. Should I expect there to be tension with a hydraulic tensioner though?

Cheers,

Keith

The crankshaft pulley nut is 1 1/2" An impact wrench would get the nut off if there was room for it (a bit tight even with the rad out). I think the only way to undo it would be to lock the camshaft sprocket. Another possibility would be to mimic the action of an impact wrench by tapping the spanner/breaker bar/ratchet handle with a hammer. It sometimes works. I second what Mike has said. Not worth skimping on parts. I can post the relevant page from the post-76 Dolomite parts catalogue if it helps.

Thanks for your replies Mike & Dave, do you think I would get away with a 38mm socket? Should be easier to get hold of. I'll try the percusive technique, failing that I can try the rope down the spark plug hole method.
The Bros do a kit of parts including a version with a 'German' chain, which I presume is equivalent to the Stag versin that ldparts do.
I'll get it apart first and see what I need to order.

Cheers,

Keithg

I forgot about the "rope trick"! You should be able to get hold of the correct sized socket. I've got a combination spanner in the right size and I can just about get it on the nut with the radiator in situ. Your first port of call should be T.D. Fitchett. Their prices are competitiive and the next day delivery is top drawer. The guy that answers the phone comes across as "Mr Grumpy" but once you get past his demeanour you realize that he knows his stuff. I've never had any issues with parts quality so they come highly recommended and not just for the Dolomite.

38mm should be fine as I have been using that size spanner for years on the crank pulley bolt.
One very easy way to get the large crank bolt undone is to forget that your spanner is still firmly wedged to the ground when you try to start the engine   :X

As for the Iwis chain Mike mentioned, you'll need the following chain;
G68 3/8 x 7/32" with 106 links Iwis part number 50017298.
The left hand chain of the Stag is the same as those used on the 1850 and TR7 engines.

Here's the relevant page from the parts catalogue.

I've got it all apart now and had a good look. It appears that the tensioner was pretty much at the end of its travel so wasn't actually doing much, so I think the problem is just general wear. The sprockets don't appear to be visibly worn so I'll order up the chain, tensioner, guides and sundries.

Keith

You might get away with adjusting the curved guide and resetting the tensioner.
But that depends on how worn the chain is.
If the sprockets are worn you do have to renew them including the chain.

:)
Well it sounds like tractor no more!
Bits arrived and bolted in, still a few things to do like adjust the ignition timing properly but back up and running.
Thanks for the advice guys 8)

Keith

You're best checking the timng by ear. Book figures are for 4 star fuel (useful for static timing) and as we all know modern fuel bruns differently. Adjust it until you get the fastest smooth running and if it pinks retard it until it stops pinking. That's basically it in a nutshell.

Glad you got it sorted.