Club Triumph

First job for me is to get the rad out for a re-core, then overhaul the fuel system!

K

There seemed to be so many problems with fuel and poor running it might be better to ask who didn't have problems and why they didn't? At Last year's Classic Le Man there were so many poor running cars in all that heat...come on who has cracked it?

webers,-the 5 didnt have any fuel issues throughout the 10 CR,- maybe i was lucky
  but they seem to be the answer,
    cheers,
        Laurence,entry 67

No issues with the engine in my TR7 (mildly tuned 2 litre (8 valve) on SU's);
Ran faultless with the temperature steady irrelevant of load or outside temperature.
Made sure I filled the tank with unleaded with a minimum octane rating of 98 RON.

It would be nice to just blame the fuel, but it's more likely thats just the common element in a lot of other problems.

Blocked and dirty fuel tanks/filters etc it could just be the first time they've been full to the brim in a while and the debris has come from there.

Carbs and fuel etc getting to hot, from the description above in moderate temperatures it was never a problem and willl have actualy helped prevent carb icing in cold weathers.

Overheating always seems to be a common problem but with a well flushed and prepared system with no airlocks, a good ducted electric fan with reliable fan switch (not sure Kenlow stats always are!) in the right place and air channeled so it has no option but to go through the radiator it shouldn't be a problem.

Now the fuel pump on an Acclaim failing there is a Mystery!

Could the fuel issues be down to the contents of the tank being sloshed around a damn sight more than usual?

as Nic said we spent a lot of time talking and thinking about the fuel problems...

I had this problem before the 10CR, broke  down on a very hot day on the M25 at the tunnel.
The problem is the fuel vapourises and the pump will not pump it and the carbs will not work.  The pump (all metal on my car) gets up to engine block temp so the fuel gets very hot (I think the glass topped ones might be better), there is no insulating block between the block and pump that does not help.
The fuel from the pump now travels around the block to the carbs and picks up more heat from the hot air from the radiator. Finally the carbs get soaked by heat from the exhaust even with a heat shield. This gets worse when stationary. This is not helped on my car by having K&N filters, thus the air thats goes into the carbs is already hot.....

I have an electric fan on my car so I can keep the enigne temp down, but then we are moving a lot of hot air down past the engine (into carbs, over fuel pipes etc...)..

On the 10CR the problem would be a misfire that got worse and worse. The solution was to pour water over the pump and carbs bowels and everything would be fine again.
Our short temp solution was a water feed to  top of the fuel pump which helped cool the fuel, this worked quite well.

My solution before the 10CR was to fit an electric suction fuel pump in the cold air at the front of the engine, but the 3 month old new pump started to fail before the 10CR and I went back to the mechanical pump....

My plan over the winter is to:
fit electric pump at rear of car
reroute fuel pipe over bulkhead to carbs (away from engine)
Improve heat shield (make a double skin one).
Build an airbox so that the carbs gets cold air from the front of the engine.

Remember that the fuel is now quite different from the fuel in the 1960/70 when the cars were designed and has a tendency to vapouris at a lower temp, a bit of googling shows that it is not just triumphs that have this problem, its very common problem.
Sorry this is  a bit long...

Mike

We had a glass top mechanical fuel pump and no cardboard sidepanels fitted.

On the back of the radiator I have a very powerful 12" Spal Fan fitted and we had no fuel evaporation problems on standard air filters and Stromberg CD150SE carbs.

1971 GT6 MK3

Leon Guyot insulated his fuel line, as well as added a heat shield between the carbs & exhaust:

http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl%3Fm-1267839478/Blah.pl?m-1305719993/s-15/#num29

Andy had this fuel vapourisation problem with his Toledo on the passes as well. I didn't experience it on the Stag, despite the carbs being in the centre of the V, but I did drive most of the passes with the bonnet cracked open, the only problem with this was that all the released hot air from under the bonnet went straight down the cabin fresh air intake - Doh!  Well at least we didn't need to use the heater ;D

MOE runs on standard glass pump and HS6's, no problem with vapourisation just a vacuum that developed in the fuel tank that ground us to a halt just as we were towing an estate out of a tunnel, just got out before we were both sitting ducks, what are the chances two cars grinding to a halt with two different fuel problems within 200 metres of each other!!

Other things to do, find occasional fuel leak in tank area, adjust/bleed brakes, check CD player keeps blowing fuses, adjust PAS belt and over the winter due a head job including valve stem seals. used 4 pints of oil, couple of cups of power steering fluid and lots of petrol.

Just added a trip to the welsh coast and back.

I didn't have any fuel problems.

I have an electric pump fitted on the chassis at the rear, fuel lines routed on bulkhead, stainless heat shields between manifold and carbs and a very large ali heat shield between carbs and K&N filters with a 3" cold air pipe from rad cowl to heat shield in an attempt to duct cold air to the carbs.

GT6 MK3 with 2.5l and HS6 carbs